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  1. 22 likes
    The idea behind this document is to create a guide to buying a used car in Sri Lanka. This is just my preliminary draft, and if it's useful I hope the experts here will add/edit it, and create a final detailed guide, which maybe could be posted somewhere in autolanka (if they think its useful) Buying a used vehicle in Sri Lanka (This applies to purchase of a used car regardless of the price/age, and applies to all registered and 'reconditioned' vehicles.) 1. tests you can perform: ================ Engine ==== Before starting: - check the engine oil. Is it at the correct level? Yes: OK/Owner topped up No: Owner does not top up, engine burning oil, etc Color of oil - Light brown/colorless - engine is running reasonably good/recent service - black - engine running bad/never serviced Note: diesels tend to have dark/black engine oil After starting Did it start easily? Yes: OK No: problems in engine/battery/starter motor/tune/etc. does the exhaust show visible smoke (white, black, bluish or grey smoke)? this coud indicate engine problems such as oil burning, worn engine etc. -- note: diesels do occationally smoke a bit, especially under acceleration does it maintain operating temperature? - listen to the engine in idle - do you hear clattering, rattling, or any odd sounds? they could indicate various problems ranging from bent valves to broken mounts? note: diesels are somewhat louder than normal gasoline engines Test drive =========== Lets say you decide to go for a test drive.. .. Step out of the vehicle, and ask the owner to get it out of his driveway/car sale etc. As he does this observe the vehicle, and see if it smokes or struggles during the procedure. Look at the place where the vehicle was parked. If there is visible engine oil/coolant, etc this could indicate problems in the vehicle. (water may be visible from the car's A/C, this is normal). Ask the owner to drive you: 1. Along a rough road (so you can test the suspension) 2. On a good road, ask the owner to drive up to at least 56km/h (or whatever local speed limit) so you can see how the vehicle performs at high speed. Turn OFF the radio and A/C and listen to the car for rattles/hums Tip: a hum from front/rear may indicate need to replace wheel bearings (or what our people refer to as razors) - Stop the car and ask the owner to back up a small hill, and observe the car exhaust for smoke, this is a good test of the clutch/etc. Actual test drive: - First make sure the vehicle has insurance and road licence which are valid. Ask to see them. Then test drive the vehicle very carefully. Make sure you have a good flat road and there is very little traffic. Remember its an unfamiliar vehicle and proceed with caution. First, test the clutch and brakes. The clutch should engage neatly before releasing the pedal fully. If it engages very late, it could mean a blown clutch plate. If there are clutch/brake problems, don't drive any further, and ask the owner to resume driving. And ask yourself whether you are sure you want to buy this car, from someone who couldnt even do basic maintenance. Reviewing the owner How the owner behaves during the test drive can give you a clue of how s/he uses the vehicle in real life. For example: - Does he roll down the window and drive (even though there is an A/C) - this may indicate that the A/C rarely worked. - Does he drive like a rally driver (in which case you can buy the car if you are willing to buy an extra engine, transmission and suspension) How has s/he spent on the car? If he has spent a lot on cosmetics while ignoring real existing mechanical problems, then you should probably consider another car. Is s/he straightforward and honest? Does what the owner says match up to what you see? For example, if the owner said the car had 2 owners in total and the log book copy shows 4 owners, then they could be lying about other things, and you should be cautious. Sometimes owners make mistakes, or simply don't know an answer, but overall if the owner appears to be honest and straightforward, that is a positive sign. [Ask Questions As you review the car, ask questions from the owner. If you see anything odd, ask about it. If the owner is honest and straightforward, its a positive sign. Try to gauge how much of what the owner is telling is the truth. A good way to do this is to pretend you don't know something and ask a question. After the test drive ============ After you return to the owners house/car sale, ask the owner to pop the hood and inspect the engine. - check temperature management. The gauge inside the car should be half or less. Aside from the gage, the engine should be reasonably managing temperature and the fans should be working properly. - Carefully tap the radiator cap with the tip of your finger. If it burns your finger off, the temperature management isnt good. Similarly the engine bay should not be boiling hot (unless it's a Nissan ) Physical inspection of vehicle ===================== 1. Visual inspection: simply look at the car - see if the lines are straight. Look at the paint. Uneven areas could indicate repainting. - look at the wheel arches. Look at the brakes. Look under the car (front/rear) If possible, take the car to a service station and inspect the underneath. If this is not possible, try to look under the car and see what is visible at least - (carry a flashlight with you when you go to see the car). - look for rust, damage, etc. - look at the engine compartment. Are there odd wires and do things look as if they have been messed with? Sometimes legitimate mods (e.g. alarm systems, aftermarket headlamps) require new wiring but if you see a mess inside, it probably means the wiring has been messed up by local mechanics in which case you should think carefully whether you really want this car. - (If the vehicle is cold) carefully open the radiator cap - check if it contains coolant, and if there is any signs of oil (could indicate a head leak) Look at the engine. If it has a slight layer of dust its OK. If it is shiny and has a layer of oil that means it has been washed at a service station. I prefer a car which has a normal slightly dusty engine vs one that has been washed and scrubbed to 'look' new. - look for leaks in radiator pipes. (with the engine off) remove the engine oil cover - if you can see nice clean silver metal with perhaps yellow brown color (engine oil) this is a positive sign. (note: diesels do tend to have dark/black engine interior, this refers to gasoline vehicles only). - Look at the fluid levels of the various fluids (power steering, brake fluid, auto transmission if auto) - if they are not up to level it could indicate leaks or careless owner. - if the vehicle is hot you may be able to open the radiator overflow tank (be careful) and check if he uses coolant. Not using coolant indicates: 1. Owner is an idiot 2. Radiator has leak and owner is topping it up with ordinary water. Either case, don't buy the car. 2. Tap test gently tap the body of the car, with a fingernail (dont rap it loudly) as you walk around. Check the hood, front left and right side and back carefully, also doors (as these are the main accident prone areas). Other general ideas: - Ask the owner what maintenance was performed. If he tells you a list of things replaced/repaired, this is usually a good sign and means the owner took some effort to look after car. - check the mileage? Mileage can be modified - but if it corresponds with the appearance of the vehicle then it could be accurate. - ask for receipts particularly for the timing belt/clutch etc HAS THE VEHICLE BEEN SERVICED/WASHED? If the owner was so cheap that he couldn't service the vehicle before he sold it, then do you really want to buy a car from him/her? *Exception*: Sometimes the owner may be actively using the car in which case it may be a bit dusty but all the same he/she should have washed/serviced/detailed the car within a few days of deciding to sell it. Now Consider the actual condition of the vehicle and make a list of all problems you encountered: Scenario 1: vehicle has major problems which can be fixed ===================================== for example: - Clutch plate gone. - brakes not too good. -minor suspension probs (e.g. weak shocks). - minor engine probs (e.g. poor tune up). Indicates that the seller was a cheap idiot (or typical local) Verdict: Buy with caution, knowing there could be other existing problems, and repair BEFORE YOU DRIVE said vehicle. Scenario 2: Vehicle has minor problems which can be fixed later ========================================= - A/C not running cold enough. - Minor dings, dents, scratches. - Minor cosmetic issues. Verdict: Buy the car, but set aside money to fix those problems later on. Scenario 3: Vehicle has major problems which can't be fixed easily =========================================== - Chassis problems (cracks/bent chassis) - major engine problems (e.g. grey/white/black smoke, burning oil, head gasket leaks) - major suspension/mechanical problems - gearbox problems which would necessitate replacing gear box... so on. Verdict: don't buy the car, unless you own a garage, have a million to spare, or are plain crazy. Other costs Aside from the above, there are a number of things you usually have to do, when purchasing ANY used car. These usually include: - Insurance & road licence. - 4 tires. - full service/oil change/air filter etc. - brake pads/etc - New battery (if existing battery not too good). - Timing belt (if close to 100k km's or multiples of that). Many people will say they replaced the belt, they could be lying. It's easier to spend 10k and replace it than to undergo a broken belt and engine rebuild. If they have replaced the belt, you can get a good garage to visually inspect it. signs of a good vehicle: - Vehicle is clean. (As in, the owner has washed, cleaned, and serviced it.) - is in good mechanical condition (good engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, body) - owner has focused on maintaining the mechanical condition of the vehicle - Vehicle has been maintained properly and scheduled maintenance has been done, e.g. brakes, clutch, timing, etc have been replaced at the proper intervals as necessary. - owner cares about vehicle, services regularly, engine oil is not dirty - owner is upfront and honest about any flaws. - owner uses a good garage for maintenance, and used original/quality components Suggestion 1: To all the experts here, can you please add your comments/suggestions tips on buying a used car. Suggestion 2: Would it be possible for Autolanka readers/Admins to set up a car pricing guide? This could be something updated regularly to show average true market values (like edmunds.com) and be useful to people looking to purchase a car. If any Autolanka readers have suggestions on what they check when buying a used car, please add them here. Update: Top gear have some excellent tips here: http://www.topgear.com/content/buyersguides/02/8.html
  2. 7 likes
    I owned a V35 for 4 years. And it remains the most fun car I have ever owned. Cried like a baby the day I had to part with it because it was such a hoot to drive, but it was time to grow up and I had so many other commitments. Let me give you the run down: My car was a dark blue 2001, JL 2**1 plates with a rear spoiler. Since I owned it the car has changed hands atleast twice and it was in mint shape when I sold it. The engine was pretty bullteproof. Regular oil changes. De-carbonisation done at autoforce every few years since its a DI, high carbon build up was a major issue. So make sure the previous owners have done the same. Parts, I replaced shocks which came to around 70K a pair at the time. Some suspension compontents are made out of alluminium so its very expensive, but A*W stocked parts and so did Pioneer motors at Panchi. The lower arm ball joints wear out very quickly on our roads. Any decent lathe shop can repair it but they break again in a few months and cause some rattling up front, but its liveable. Otherwise you have to replace the whole arm because the ball joint comes with that and that's made of alluminium and an expensive fix. Other issues was the stock BOSE CD in dash CD changer gets stuck and chews your CD's and is not fixeable. Then the AC control unit and the Stereo and everything is all inteconnected or something. That happened once where the AC was stuck on full throttle and I couldn't shut it off and had to replace some electrical component which cost a bomb. Other than that, I replaced an air flow sensor. Radiotor top tank blew and I replaced it, and the cooling fans which I imported through the agent because I couldn't find any in SL. I think the fan cost me around 40K to import. Brake pads wear out fast, but those were available both at Pioneer and A*W. Keep in mind that I last owned the car well over 5 years ago so I don't know how things are now. Let me know if you need any more info. I loved the car. It was quick, comfy and at the time got me plenty of attention-maybe a bit too much! And it sounded lovely when you rev it. Beautiful weighted steering that all these new EPS systems truly lack. Such an underrated car.
  3. 7 likes
    Preparing the engine for re-assembly. Most people neglect or even flat out forget to give the engine block a pressurerized oil,air and water treatment before re-assembling it.But it is a must especially if the engine has been idle for a long time.Remember I'm talking about the block only,remove the Crank shaft along with the con rods,liners(if applicable) and pistons.Your local service station should be able to handle it. 1.Pressure wash the block with a 1/2 litre of penetrating oil.Have them concentrate on the insides and the water/oil lines around the block. 2.Wait about 10 minutes then pressure wash with 1 litre of diesel, 3.Air it out with highly compressed air,again concentrating on the water and oil lines surrounding the combustion chamber 4.Pressure wash with water. 5.And finally.finish it off with a litre of petrol.applied same as above.
  4. 6 likes
    I have an entirely different opinion from the rest. I would say go and buy one. I am in my mid 30s and I bought my first car when I was around 24-25. It was a huge learning experience. I lost a lot of money on that car. I think I bought it for something like 3.30, spent another 2.50 for repairs and mods and eventually sold it for something like 3.50. Yes I lost money, but here's the deal. 1. I gained a massive amount of knowledge about cars by meddling with it. 2. The personal loan I got had a monthly instalment of around 13,000 and my job paid me less than 40k at that time. If I didn't take that personal loan and bought the car I would have spent that 13,000 anyway on something/someone or the other I have absolutely no regrets on losing that 250k. The experience I gained was much more valuable than that and had I waited til 30 or so to buy a car and end up buying a lemon (like most people do), I would have lost much more than the 250k anyway. This is the age to experiment in life. Be it jobs, cars, women... whatever in life. You will not get this chance once you pass 30. So go take a risk. Get a car. I have just one advice for you. Never ever go for a lease. Always try to get financed through a personal loan. If you don't like the car you can easily sell it off. and you don't need to get a comprehensive insurance.
  5. 5 likes
    Let us observe 2 minutes of silence for people who think the Integra is just a "19 year old Honda".
  6. 5 likes
    According to your 'point of view', there's no pointing spending even a couple of hundred bucks for a Ford Capri, Mini Cooper, VW Beetle, MGA etc. as they have outlived their crush-by date by at least 4 decades...
  7. 5 likes
    Hi, please see my comments in red and congrats on your purchase. In addition to your queries somewhere down the line of owning this car you will realize that this car has very stiff suspension, take your car outstation on a winding twisting road. The heavy steering and suspension will all start to make sense then
  8. 4 likes
    For f*ck's sake, stop posting crap just because you have a keyboard in front of you. What do you know about integras?
  9. 4 likes
    Macro AT used to stock adjustable camber kits
  10. 3 likes
    Source: Facebook If someone can find the full video, please share here.
  11. 3 likes
    This is illegal. According to Motor Traffic Act, any modification to the structure of a vehicle can only be done with the written consent of the Commissioner of Motor Traffic. In Sri Lanka, the 'selective application of law' principle prevails over any law. For example, this morning, I noticed cops were trying to chase all vehicles (other than buses) away from the newly implemented bus-lane, except for a white Hummer.
  12. 3 likes
    Isn't it much easier to take the tire to repair shop nearby on a tuk-tuk than expecting a someone in this forum to know a mobile tire repair contact in your area? I mean think of the probability for a positive outcome.
  13. 2 likes
    Uhhh....so what are you asking For anyone to advise you on buying between a Hybrid and Non-Hybrid (irrespective of brand and model) you would need to tell us a bit more like... - how often would you use the car (daily ? or a weekend car ?) - how much would you actually be using the car ? (like...would you do a few hundred km per month ? or a thousand or even more ?) Even if a car is a daily used car it doesn't mean you will drive it a lot...I had a car which I used every day but every month I put only about 300km. - how long do you intend to keep it for ? (this might not be a valid question as in SL ppl change cars based on what would make their neighbors' panties drop and not on any sensible factors) - How much do you intend to spend ? - Where will it be used ? Outstation ? Hilly areas ? Within a city ? Middle of no where ? - What kind of work will it be used for ? <seems like passenger hauling as you seem to focus more on sedans>
  14. 2 likes
    this is quite a vague question. Does the car start at all? (you later mention it happend two times?) does the car crank? There could be a 1001 reasons for a car not starting. Dead Battery, messed up starter motor, fuel line blockage, empty tank(since you were asking about it earlier) etc...please provide more info so that the folks here could help you out.
  15. 2 likes
    am i the only one who is still concerned about @rcmadawala's condition of the tyres than discounts etc.? Dude - get yourself a set of Chinese tyres if you can't afford a big brand. I've used them in the past. Nothing much to complain about. They don't last very long but they perform ok.
  16. 2 likes
    35-40% off the list price is the usual discount you get for tyres. That's nothing spectacular. You have tyres that are worn to the brim and all you are worried about is the discount and fuel economy? I just can't understand some people.
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    So...as the above took a nasty turn to no where in helping you out...and seems like no one here with a STi has responded might I suggest the following ? Go to one or two of the reputed and well known garages that work (and race prep) on cars like Evos and WRXs...have a chat with them and see what they recommend or what they use. Alternatively, you can try going to one of the car meets or go to some of the famous FB groups and ask your question. There a lot of ricers with Evos and WRXs who are complete douche bags (can I say douche bag on the forum ?) but some f them are quite nice and extremely helpful.
  19. 2 likes
    Wow my last post here was in 2015! A lot has changed since then So far up to now. The car has been full repainted with M tec kit installed Digital AC conversion was done Engine top overhaul was performed too 325i Brake conversion installed for front and rear Car has been lowered with lowering springs New exhaust mounts were fitted, since the old ones were sagging. Fitted a roof spoiler and head lamp eye lids and a few other cosmetic items just to spruce it up! Awaiting to do the interior now!
  20. 2 likes
    Please dont just copy and paste reviews from Car mags mate if you have to do it please mention the source and URL too...its common courtesy!
  21. 2 likes
    Right, so this is the 2 pin and 3 pin version and not the 16 pin OBD connector. From memory, you can short out the 2 pin connector with a piece of wire and then switch on the car (don't start). If there are any error codes, your Check Engine light will blink in different ways to indicate different error numbers. I think the number of long blinks is for the first digit and the number of short blinks is for the second digit. So for example, if the blink pattern is (long long long long short short, the error code is 42. Hope this makes sense. If there are multiple error codes, it will cycle through them in the same blinking fashion. Mind if I ask why you want to carry out a diagnosis? Are you just curious or is the Check Engine light on?
  22. 2 likes
    Reassembling an engine on the floor or even on a wooden pallet laid on the floor isn't ideal. By the end of her build, you'll probably end up having a working engine and a broken back. So it'd better be a level, sturdy surface on which you can assemble the engine while standing up. I would recommend fabricating a frame if that can be done. You can simply use nuts and bolts to hold the structure together and make it so that it can be customised to hold any engine. Will be useful if you work on engines regularly. If this is too much, then the least you can do is find a level, sturdy surface (again, at a height that you can stand and work) and use pieces of wood to rest the engine. You can even join the pieces of wood together to form a cradle that holds the engine in place. This would be the cost effective option. If it's a one-off build, I'd just stick to the wooden cradle. Something that looks like this:
  23. 2 likes
    The only practical reason I see to use an SUV in SL is the pathetic road conditions...even in the suburbs there are huge potholes that are eagerly looking forward to rough up your car....
  24. 2 likes
    I've had several RAV4s and CR-Vs and had close friends who have X-Trails bith in SL, Japan and a few other countries....they all have on average the same fuel figures...5-7 kmpl depending on your driving style and usage pattern. The CR-V mind you was a bit better than the others. I am sure you will have plenty of "friends" and sellers saying that their CR-V, RAV4, X-trail does 9-10kmpl....its really hard to believe. The RAV4 which I used in Japan before bringing here and my friends' X-Trails did about 8-9 on a combined cycle (50% city 50% expressway like driving)...hard to imagine these cars would do as better in SL. If fuel consumption is a concern then you should not be looking at SUVs. CR-Vs, X-Trails and RAV4s all fall within the same power bracket. 150ish HP from 2.0L engines (Xtrail 2.0L only had about 128HP though) and about 170HP from the 2.4-2.5L engines. Personally I find the 2.0L variants a bit underpowered (unless they are the very old versions and are light....the newer ones are heavier and the little engines do not handle too well...which is why Toyota scarpped the 2.0L engine from the A30 series RAV4). Why do you specifically need a Cross-over/SUV though ? For your price range you will be able to get a much newer sedan, which would be more comfortable as well, potentially better on fuel (depending on the car) and easier to drive around in Colombo traffic. Granted likes of the RAV4/CR-V does have more space which comes handy on long distance travel (but if you are doing that only occasionally you might want to reconsider it)
  25. 2 likes
    Do you have any visible ATF oil leaks under your transmission? Slippage usually occurs when the ATF level is low or if fluid pressure inside the transmission is low. I don't remember if the BJ5P has an ATF dipstick, but if it does, can you check the level and condition of the oil if possible and report back? Was the transmission oil pan removed and cleaned during the oil change? Another reason maybe because the fluid is overheating. I think the ATF cooler lines go through the radiator on your car and if so, you may want to check if the lines are blocked. How's the general operating temperature of the engine during your aggressive drive? Still mid point and fans kicking in normally? Just trying to eliminate other causes here before opening up the transmission. What's the mileage of the car BTW?
  26. 2 likes
    Guys, Problem identified and rectified. After dismantle the engine we found that there is no bit of sludge deposited. Metal looked glistering shine. I"ll upload a photo later. However, the problem was stucked oil rings and compression rings "mechanics language - oil rings badalaa" . This has happened by oil residues. It seems these oil residues have glued rings on to the piston while not allowing it to expand and seal the clearance between the piston and the body. So that the oil sprayed to the bottom area of the piston has gone to the combustion chamber and burnt. These kind of engines, we cannot observe or detect burning oil except a reduction in the oil level. According to the mechanic, rings were not needed to be replaced. Just cleaning was sufficient. Now the vehicle is ready to go. Did couple of test runs and everything is okay. Got the repair done at famous honda Garage in Polgolla. Very cooperative, nice people. Still I am wondering what has caused this problem. One reason would be lengthy oil changing interval (see above what I have posted), though I used Honda Synthetic Oil (9000 km changing interval). I was told by the mechanic that this is often a problem in GP1. Still this is a mystery for me.......
  27. 2 likes
    LOL everytime I call them regarding an issue they always try to fix something in my router or make me reset my router
  28. 2 likes
    Machan... go to Maradana Police even now and file a complaint. Maradana police buggers know all these tricks and they will round up all the kuddas and beat them up. Tell them they threatened you and you had to do it for self defense. Do you have the cargills bill? Show that as a proof. I have got work done in Darley Road in the past (things like tinting, fitting steering wheel cover, beadings etc.). Never had any issue. You just need to act like a man and they won't try to harass you.
  29. 1 like
    1. If you drive full out at 130kmph per hour or drive rather aggressively within city limits you would reduce the total range of the car as you are effectively using more energy. 3. Hmm.. buy and live in a caravan. Home will always be right behind :D
  30. 1 like
    When it comes to a resale, there is no appreciation of fine maintenance, and adoring a vehicle and treating it with mechanical sympathy, End of the day you just end up at the paws of some car dealer or low-life who just tries to bargain it off you and you end up listening to their insults and get quoted a peanut sum. Being a motoring fanatic in this country is starting to turn into a curse.
  31. 1 like
    From next day on wards, they (shop owners) will do same thing again. Because they know that, nothing will happen. No body will come again for next few years and court case will take 5 - 10 years. If CAA really need to implement the law and order, they have to visit regularly and do on-the-spot fines above 1 million instantly. By reading last paragraph (daily news), Quote: “We have been given special instructions by Minister Badiudeen to continue with the raids on motor vehicle spare parts outlets as the situation concerned is a commonplace event in the market of motor vehicle spare parts,” he said. ....unquote. Why our authorities - officers - waiting (to execute their duties) until minister asks to do everything. Don't they know about the spare parts mafia in panchikawathta since 20-30 years
  32. 1 like
    @iRage the AL blog is different to AL forum. For each blog posts, there will be a dedicated thread to comment and It's designed to highlight each blog posts published by the blog owner. Therefore it's better to comment under respective blog post.
  33. 1 like
    Hello [email protected] Yes they are not, specially if you driving bumper to bumper, So get a good on gas and rent a SUV when ever you want to outstation and drive like you own it. regards JC
  34. 1 like
    What your "ECU guy" has done is fool the ECU (and you by the way) into thinking that the pressure in the manifold is less than it actually is. As a result the engine doesn't adjust fuel pressure and timing to produce the necessary power depending on the load. So yes, your car isn't able to handle load due to the "modification". I suggest you restore it to how it was originally and find a good mechanic who can fix the issue properly. A simple diagnosis will tell you why the engine is running rich. I doubt even the O2 sensor this guy used is a working one. What's important is to address the actual issue instead of focusing on the symptoms.
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    Machan check ebay.. Check whether below link is a fit http://www.ebay.com/itm/13420-65D00-Throttle-Position-Sernsor-Fits-Chevrolet-Tracker-Suzuki-Vetara-XL7-/281777024490?hash=item419b382dea:g:EtkAAOSwu4BV06s7&vxp=mtr
  37. 1 like
    The symptoms as I understand ie stalling and difficulty in hard acceleration can be due to a bad TPS. When the throttle is suddenly opened as in hard acceleration the fuel injection system should adjust the amount of fuel injected by each injector. Now TPS provides an instantaneous feedback on the throttle change to the ECU while the adjustments according to MAP/MAF and O2 sensors are done subsequently. Hence TPS can be faulty but you do not need to guess it based on inputs from a forum. You can get the TPS tested and the fault confirmed with a simple resistance measurement and get it replaced with a clear conscience.
  38. 1 like
    Yes, you will have to take the bumper off to make the job easier. The electrics have to be connected as well and the lines need to go to a connector near the horn, so if you have the bumper out, it will make your life much easier. You can however access the back of the fog light assembly without removing the bumper, for purposes like replacing fog lamp bulbs. All you need to do is push up the black plastic cover sitting horizontally between the back of the bumper and the front of the wheel arch.
  39. 1 like
    Hi lahiru007, Welcome to the forum. Please check this link; that was posted by Saturn long time ago. I too used the information on this thread to purchases my vehicles. This is one of the best posts I have come across. I know this will come in handy http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/3430-how-to-buy-a-used-car-in-sri-lanka/#comment-47839
  40. 1 like
    Buy a Honda Vezel Good on fuel both city and out Reasonable power Good second market, hopefully Any other SUV at your price will not have economy u expect People usually do not buy SUVs to off road They have commanding driving positions as you sit little upper, do not get intimidated by three wheeler, vans, busses Getting in and out is easy due to high seats Due to larger tires better comfort on poorly surfaced roads high ground clearance will save the under carriage from speed bumps and curbs
  41. 1 like
    Well and suv wouldn't be any more fun than a hybrid car. You will be lugging around a lot of weight and that will punish you in the corners. If you really want to have fun get a car. honestly if you don't do even a little bit of offroading an suv is a waste of money considering the fuel and maintenance costs. But if you are still hooked on suvs the Tucson, sportage and Sorento are not that bad. Ride quality is pretty good and standard equipment is good as well. Not to mention you can get a 2011 ish vehicle. The main downside i see is the interior quality, almost all of them have plastics that are discolored, faded and soft touch plastics have turned into gum balls with our sun.
  42. 1 like
    All this time this topic was going on about xtrail rav4 and crv Yes they are not economical and from my experience about the petrol xtrail it would do around 5-6kmpl in colombo. But the list starts with the Rexton Santafe sorento These are diesels and do lot better on fuel The Rexton has more repairs than the latter 2. From personal experience the Santafe diesel would do in excess of 10kmpl in colombo and around 15kmpl out station and it's cheap to maintain filters cost around rs.2000 each which is very reasonable for a diesel. So the Santafe and sorento are good choices to consider in this price range
  43. 1 like
    Topic was under discussion many times over if you took some time to search the forum.
  44. 1 like
    Apologies for going OT now. Yes it is a DIY as long as you are careful not to damage the rubber grommet that holds PCV to the cam cover. One method of checking the effectiveness of PCV is explained here You may have to rev up to around 1000 RPM to see a vacuum forming in the crank case. When you remove the PCV be careful not to damage the rubber grommet because given the age of a 2SZ engine now that the grommet must have lost its resilience and it may crack if you apply undue force on it. So use a fork-like tool (pointed nose pliers or something similar) to slowly pry the PCV out. You can use a carb cleaner but do not use it on the rubber parts. PCV is plastic but immune to solvents but better to use as little as possible. Hence it is better if you can keep the PCV submerged in diesel or kerosene for couple of hours and then apply a little carb cleaner to flush out deposits. Once you clean it you should hear a faint click sound when you shake the PCV. Also the oil baffles inside the cam cover may need cleaning too. But for this you have to take the cam cover out and soak the whole thing in diesel for a longtime. You would not believe how hard the gunk you find inside.
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    One thing we overlooked here is the proper operation of the PCV valve. I guess it is time you get the part inspected and replaced if necessary. Failure in PCV could result in faster breakdown of engine oil. The gunk on the rings may have accumulated when the car was left idle over some period before it was shipped here.
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    Yes. Correct keywords not verify the information. But that will filter misleading information. Also the forums must be reliable. What we will get, if post the above topic in E**kiri ?
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    The Internet is full of idiots trying out things on their cars, but that doesn't mean they're recommended nor safe. Flushing with kerosene is simply a way to destroy your engine IMO. Even engine flushing solvents should only be used as a last resort. If you must flush, just flush using engine oil. Simply perform oil + filter changes in shorter intervals than usual. Search the forum for more info. This has been discussed in detail.
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    Hi Machan.. I have a City GD8 2004 model, i had an issue with the highbeam as well, and same as you root cause was switch has burnt really bad. However before replacing the switch make sure that you have used correct voltage bulbs (may be previous owner have increased it from 55-60 to 100). This is the main cause for such issue. If that's the case, either u can replace once with correct voltage / make sure to use relays. After that you can buy a switch. I found mine from Panchikawatta like almost 3 years ago or something around 7500 LKR. However the seller didnt wanted to sell just the switch as it came with whole steering column and it costed around 25-30k... But after having lengthy conversation he agreed to give it. but it took me like 5-6 hours to find a good one (as mine is like almost brandnew condition). I really cant remember the exact shop, but if you walk abit and ask from shops (stay away from kaakko) they will guide you to some resourceful places.. Im pretty sure tec motors must be having em, but should be within the limit of what u quoted.. I will update you on the shop if i get to find the receipt .. not quite sure where i kept it exactly.. However just give a call to Thilak on 0776330336 and see whether he has any (im not 100% sure about this no) but i have saved, and should be related to some seller who i bought switches for some reason :D) just give it a try and try ur luck.. Cheers
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    Using Payoneer from more than 3 years. Mostly using their MasterCard. Never try to transfer to a local account. If you use the card more than 3 times withing a month, the service charge is only $1. Commercial bank ATMs and Sampath ATMs always accepting Payoneer cards and charging Rs 300 / Rs 250 for withdrawals.
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    Find a 70 sized tire. will increase the height slightly. as in 175/70/14
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