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  1. 3 points
    Three months passed under my ownership. Some maintenance work done at agents. (1) ATF changed by ATF changer. (Perodua section never use ATF changer for ATF changing but Mitsubishi section does) (Mitsubishi Diaqueen ATF SP3, 10 liters – Rs.16,320 , Labour – Rs.2,106 ) (2) Lubrication service done. (Materials & Labour Rs. 11,874) Mitsubishi Oil filter code : MD360935 (3) Cabin Room Bulb replaced (Mitsubishi Code : MF820513) (4) Boot lid lock was unable to open by the key when I purchased the car. Lock barrel taken out , treated with WD40 and lubricated. Now it works pretty fine and smoothly. (5) Right side front wheel hub bearing was noisy. Replaced it. Mitsubishi code: 3885A001 , OEM manufacturer: NTN, Bearing cost : Rs.10,154 & Labour cost Rs.2,886) (6) For the time being aftermarket door visor set installed. Not that bad. Many thanks to @trinity for introducing me https://partsouq.com/ Once you entered chassis number of the vehicle, it gives all genuine part numbers with relevant diagrams. Very useful. (Previous owner @Rusiru Sooriyakumara was a frequent reader of Autolanka. I invited him to join to AL forum and now he is here. Welcome to AL Rusiru !!!)
  2. 3 points
    We are very excited to introduce all the new features and improvements to AutoLanka Forum, after the successful update which was carried out on 30th July 2017. 5GB Attachment Space - Now each member will receive 5GB of space to upload images. Please make use of our Gallery & Blog facilities to share your motoring related contents with fellow forum members and the general public. We will be increasing this limit time to time and if any of the members reach its limit, feel free to contact us to request more space. This will be a free service offered by autolanka for all of our members. Clubs - Clubs are a brand new way of supporting sub-communities within our site. Any member can create a new club under AutoLanka. Our aim is to centralize all automotive clubs in one place so that they can promote their club activities to the general public. Reactions - Offer more fine-grained sentiments towards content than a simple up/down or 'like'. They are now in common usage on social networks, and so users expect to be able to be more nuanced in their response to something they see. Complete Your Profile - Encourage or require members to fill out the details on their profile. Also now allows for quick registration to encourage joining. And a whole lot more..here is the full list! Leaderboard Enhancements Richer Embeds Group Promotion Improvement Fluid Forum View Member History Editor Uploading Improvements Authy Integration Commerce Improvements Gallery Improvements Statistic Reporting Copy Topic to Database Downloads Index Page Blog Sidebar Promoting Content Clubs Reactions Calendar Venues Social Sign In Streamlining Calendar Add Similar Event Gallery Lightbox Navigation Letter Profile Photos Device Management Delayed Deletes Calendar Event Reminders Content Messages Recommended Replies Complete Your Profile We hope you enjoy the updated AutoLanka Forum !!
  3. 3 points
    Although drive goes to the rear, there is a considerable amount of force exerted on the front wheels under braking and cornering. Braking especially because the weight of the car is shifted to the front. If the tyres are old and brittle, chunking can happen. However, since we can't rule out suspension issues, I agree to getting alignment checked once more (special attention to negative camber and toe out). You might want to swap the rear wheels to the front after a balance before the alignment, just to make it easier to observe wear and to minimise risk of a blowout.
  4. 3 points
    1. I think the City has a conventional CVT transmission not a DCT. 2. The Vezel does have the heating issue as well and if you search the forums you will see several references to it. I don't know about the GP5 3. When the masses in SL buy vehicles, things like reliability, performance, etc...are low down the list of priorities. It starts off with fuel consumption, followed on by availability of cheap parts and ability to run cheap, how impressed the neighbours would be, etc...Thus, even if they did know about reliability issues they would still purchase the vehicle with the hope that they will be able to sell it off at a profit before the problems prop up. So yeah...in SL people will be buying the car even if it doesn't suit the local conditions. 4. The DCT issue is not a "PROBLEM", but in fact the type of gear box not suiting Sri Lankan driving conditions. In Japan the i-DCD does not have similar problems (any more). The City, HR-V (Vezel's export model) and Fit all have standard CVT gearboxes (also they are all gasoline variants). But that is fine...our Sri Lankan baases, car salesmen and doctor/engineer/lawyer permit holders know a lot more than the engineers and techs at the car manufacturers. So we are in good hands
  5. 2 points
    Like Davy said you'll be able to find many Lancer and Civic related threads in the forum Anyways looking at your requirements I'd say both cars fit the bill perfectly. I've driven both cars and neither of them is as comfortable as an Allion or a Premio - even a CS series Lancer feels comfier. But these are in their own league when it comes to handling and "oomph" If I were you Id' go for the Lancer - reasons OTOH are: Lancer: The better - looking one among the two (looks are subjective though) Many Lancer EXs are still with their first owners and are being serviced by the agent so you can verify the mileage via the agent -( you can find all information up to the last service done by the agent even if it's not being maintained by the agent anymore ) Better ground clearance (165mm vs 150mm) A rare sight on roads - Civic FD1, FD3, FD4 all looks the same and collectively there are many civics on the roads than the Lancers. Agent support, workshop network around the country FD4 : Not as rare as the EX so finding a one in good nick should be easier ( I mean, near your area. You won't have to travel a long way just to inspect the vehicle) Dashboard looks better (again, subjective) P.S. come to think of it, I'd buy the Lancer anyways. It's a Lancer after all.
  6. 2 points
    Dolpin modal market ne, ekai
  7. 2 points
    Did you try the spray bottle method? Basically fill a spray bottle with soapy water (shampoo works best) and spray all over the tyre and carefully look for bubbles. Pay close attention to the bead of the tyre (both sides) and also check the valve stem as well. Pretty simple DIY job and works better than submerging in water if the leak is very small like yours.
  8. 2 points
    According to Section 5 clause 2A of the Motor Traffic Act No. 8 of 2009, So to answer your question: 1. Modifications of vehicles is NOT illegal in Sri Lanka but you need to get your modifications approved by the DMT. If not, its illegal. 2. According to the above clause, even changing the colour is illegal, unless approved by DMT. That leopard sticker is also illegal. 3. This is NOT a new law. This has been in existence since 2009 but like many other laws in the country, it gets enforced whenever law enforcement feels like it. I am personally in favour of that law because most of the modifications done in Sri Lanka are either fixing beat barrels (sound pollution and hazard to pedestrians) or bits of fibreglass fitted to cars (safety hazard). In Sinhalese: 2009 අංක 8 දරන මෝටර් රථ විධිවිධාන (සංශෝධන) පනතේ 5 වන වගන්තියට අනුව මෝටර් රථයක ව්‍යුහය හෝ පෙනුම වෙනස් කිරීමේදී මෝටර් රථ ප්‍රවාහන දෙපාර්තමේන්තුවේ කොමසාරිස්වරයෙකු ගේ අනුමැතිය ලබාගත යුතුය. එම නීතියට අනුව බොඩිකිට් සවිකිරීම, ටින්ට් කිරීම, වර්ණය වෙනස් කිරීම, බීට් බැරල් සවිකිරීම ආදිය අනුමැතියෙන් තොරව කිරීම නීති විරෝධී වේ. මෝටර් රථ ප්‍රවාහන දෙපාර්තමේන්තුවේ කොමසාරිස්වරයෙකු ගේ අනුමැතිය තිබේ නම් කලහැකිය. ටින්ට් කිරීමේදී ආරක්ෂක අමාත්‍යංශයේ අනුමැතියද අවශ්‍ය වේ. මෙය අද ඊයේ නිකුත් වූ නීතියක් නොව වසර ගණනාවක සිට පැවතෙන නීතියකි. මෙය ක්‍රියාත්මක වීමේදී අලස බවක්ද කාලයක සිට පැවතුනි.
  9. 2 points
    Also....don't blow your entire budget on buying the car. So if what you can comfortably afford is 4.5mil...aim at spending about 4.2mil or even less (unless of course you have a decent amount of residual cash lying around on top of the 4.5mil). No matter how well the car is; you probably will, and should, do some pre-emptive work.
  10. 2 points
    What about Renault Kwid, since many people say it is also a kind of an SUV
  11. 2 points
    I believe the parliament model comes with an optional convoy of Defenders while the minister model comes with 2 cops on a motorbike. Both models come with the right hand side signal indicator permanently switched on.
  12. 2 points
    Nope it's not unplugged, there is a sponge on that hose. It's the hose to the carcoal cannister.
  13. 2 points
    Replace the battery on your key??? 'Key Battery Remaining Little' is the direct translation from Japanese to English as per the google translate app. you can scan any text. It's a must have if you're using a modern JDM vehicle unless you can read Japanese.
  14. 2 points
    Nope..the Fit Aria came to Japan from Thailand. Double checked and every Japanese profile I could read about the car says so (even the one on the Honda website). JDM = Japanese Domestic Market..JDM does not indicate where it was assembled (yes in Japan you get JDM BMWs and Mercs and in the US you get USDM Land Cruisers). Thus, a Fit Aria, can be assembled in another country specifically for the JDM. When the Grace, a JDM model, was first released it was fully manufactured in Thailand for the Japanese market (now it is assembled in Japan). Same goes for electronics (mostly from China) to household items. Thus, the Fit Aria was built for JDM in Thailand. When the Fit Aria was IMPORTED TO JAPAN FROM THAILAND by Honda Japan, the car would be sold to a Japanese customer/person through a Japanese Honda dealer....obvioulsy it will have the Japanese Honda dealership stickers, registration certificates in Japan, Japanese dealership service stickers, Japanese gvt. road worthy test (shaken) and inspection stickers, etc.... When the above car is sold by its original owner in Japan he/she would probably trade it in to a dealer for a new car. The dealer would try to sell it on their used car lot or send it to auction. In Japan 90% of cars are traded through auctions so this includes all cars irrespective of country of assembly/manufacture. The auction sheet does not say country of assembly/manufacturer (at least not for a Japanese car). Anyway, the Auction Sheet is there for any car that goes through a Japanese auction irrespective of where it was manufactured. The JAAI certificates are there for cars that are exported FROM Japan to countries that require certification. Again, doesn't matter where the car was assembled in. If the car is exported from Japan to a country that needs a certificate you get it. Thus, a 2004 BMW 320i in Sri Lanka that was bought down from Japan will have an auction sheet (if it was sold through the auction) and a JAAI certificate. That doesn't mean the BMW was assembled/manufactured in Japan.
  15. 2 points
    A reason why people go through sales or brokers to sell their cars is that they don't like to face the buyer. The main reason is that something is wrong with the car. It's met with an accident or is pending a major repair. In that instance using a middle man makes the seller kind of immune as most of the praising will be done by the middle man so that the seller can say I didn't say that. And that's the reason they go for cheaper prices. Because face it they are lemons. Only a broker will advise it's better to buy through a broker. The only vehicle we sold through a car sale (was one we got from one) was because it had met with an accident overheated and the engine was gasping for it's last breath. We sold it to a broker for cheap cause we didn't want to get involved in a crappy deal. He had cheated another buyer and got top doller for it
  16. 1 point
    Well the Fit Aria and the City came off the same assembly line in Thailand. So in essence they are more or less the same car. However, the Fit Aria has a slightly different configuration to meet Japanese regulations. Still the Fit Aria seems to be a bit more expensive than the City just because people think it was made in Japan because it came from Japan. I love the Swift Beetle. I like it a lot more than the latest generation gasoline Swifts. In fact the only current generation that comes close to the older one is the Mild Hybrid variant. The Fit is a fun little car...nice firm sporty ride The Swift has a nice firm ride with nice handling too and I find it a bit more comfier than the Fit also the Swift is not as economical as the Fit (so it seems). Also, personally I found the body proportions/shape of the Fit a little bit easier to drive than the Swift. The wider waist line and below takes bit of getting used to when parking and stuff in narrow spaces..especially when parallel parking in to small gaps (e.g. the rear end just out a bit farther than the rear glass so the rear end is a bit farther away from where you would expect it to be...which can get confusing the first few times when your mind if fixed on driving a standard hatchback). Also....I prefer the rear visibility of the Fit a bit more than the Swift.
  17. 1 point
    credit card companies charge a 2% fuel surcharge. But nowadays most banks refund it. If you pump 3000/- you would see 3060/- on your statement and later a 60/- refunded.
  18. 1 point
    I had a very interesting experience last week which I thought I should be sharing with everyone here so they can stay away from trouble. I had made plans to buy an a Nissan Xtrail 2000, checked a couple of vehicles and found something that looked decent for the age. The owner seemed genuine and seemed to have maintained the vehicle well. I had the vehicle intensively checked at C## Ch##ks for any issues - it scored 85/100 on their sheet which I thought was okay for a 15 year old vehicle (registered later) . The mileage read 148k. I also did a test drive and finalized on buying it. While we were just going over paper work for the document signing I came across an emission test sheet which showed the odometer reading 260k. That seems completely fair for a 15-year-old vehicle yet & I was in shock. Now the seller started to give all kinds of excuses saying it would have been a data entry mistake. Immediately I walked away from the deal. Any other person who didn't go through the emission test paper would be fooled, and the seller too will not present the old papers here onwards. When I checked with above mentioned inspection agency they said that after 100k on the odo-meter it is difficult to detect any tampering. I am open to providing any more details with anyone who might be considering buying a similar vehicle. Have to admit the owner was nice enough to return the advance of 5k I paid him. My mistake was that I was not being able to check the emission test sheets at the initial stages. It all boils down to the price, and the vehicle was over priced.
  19. 1 point
    You mean B14 right ? yeah it seems like it since the interior dash structure is from a b14 You put a horse on the front of anything and it becomes a mustang
  20. 1 point
    You say Shitty cars and then you list this....
  21. 1 point
    Me wahaneta mama nam 15 - 16k wage thami kynne mokda meka market naha mechra modifications nam wadi.. but car eke original paint eka ghla poddak modify kra kyla nam aulk naha
  22. 1 point
    if its good as brand new it should have brand new manufacturers guarantee of 8-10 years isn't it? Simple example is what will happen if you use a pentorch with half aged and new batteries. Eventually all batteries will degrade faster than usual.
  23. 1 point
    Don't wash the car and just park it,.specially with a car cover, instead, go for a short drive to dry out everything. TT.
  24. 1 point
    1. Zotye Nomad II - are the new models still so bad. YES 2. Toyota Cami : Not the most refined baby jeep out there. The same thing with a Daihatsu badge is a bit cheaper. 3. If you are looking for fuel consumption, then these crossovers are not for you. Even a Cami; a sedan with the same engine would be a tad more fuel efficient than the Cami. The RAV4 and Grand Vitara would have done about 7ish kmpl when it was new on a good day (depending on the engine on the Gr. Vitara would have done even less). With general wear and tear even the most well looked after specimen is not going to do that much now. You might have better luck with a diesel like what Pericles mentioned. Forget about something like a LandCruiser or Pajero for your budget. Even the most abused ones go for astronomical prices. If I may ask..why do you need a SUV style vehicle ?
  25. 1 point
    I think it's far better to go for a Japanese suv rather than going for a Chinese nomad jeep.consider going for a honda crv or Toyota rav4..
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Great work @MADZ and the team! Looks great! There's a lot of exploring to do! Kudos on the 5GB storage space. The top banner area has a bit of blank space underneath it in mobile view. Screenshot below:
  28. 1 point
    In Japan cars have a weight tax that gets applied; larger cars attract higher weight taxes. So not many people got for larger cars. Like you said...if someone wants a larger car for comfort, cars like the Alphard/Vellfire, Elgrand are actually a lot more luxurious and comfortable than the full sized SUVs. As for diesels...its not that they were not popular, its jsut that they were not offered to get popular.The Japanese manufacturers never bothered to develop the diesel engines to meet the emissions requirements in Japan. Only Mitsubishi did it from the days the new regulations came in to effect. The others simply stopped making diesel engines for private vehicles. Then Nissan came out with the diesel engine for the X trail a decade later and now nearly 2 decades later Mazda and then Toyota finally developed a diesel engines that meet the regulations which can be used in privately owned vehicles.. Until then there were Euro diesels around.
  29. 1 point
    Your original transmission should work without any issue. That shouldn't even be your major concern IMO because you need to figure out how to wire up the VTEC oil feed and importantly, wire up the new ECU so that VTEC kicks in (yo!) properly. This is a very common conversion, a simple Google search would reveal a lot of results. Just search for "Honda D15B Mini-Me"
  30. 1 point
    Yes you can, get out and push it.
  31. 1 point
    Via broker or direct sale no matter if you are know the subject. It means u have an idea about car , car market, people as well as automobile then u can face any seller or broker without any fear. Dont trust anyone or anything other than your master mind.
  32. 1 point
    Nice bunch of information @iRage Thanks for sharing.
  33. 1 point
    Bro its advisable to go through earlier threads before opening a new one for a deeper idea on this topic. Anyway as of for your budget its actually a good choice to go for a Japanese car considering its resale value and low repair costs. Well these are my opinions on the cars u requested Honda Civic ES/EK models- Good Resale value and Easy direct bolt on upgrades with super stealth, Fuel economy worked like 8-10 when i used an Es-5 Facelift model. Repair and maintenance is not that cheap compared to Toyotas and Nissans but doesn't require constant attention. Engine pickup is fair with the 1.6 I-Vtec and comfort wise its a real achiever. As a whole its a good daily driver Lancer CK2/CS - never used one but from my friends car it works around 9-12 according to him. Acceleration was fair enough and the overall maintenence seems to be fine. Easy modifications are available direct bolt on. Honda City - Once again havent owned one but know many people who use them- There are 2 models the Japanese one that shares the same design of the Fit Aria and another variant from Thailand. The 2001-2 model Variant is the Thailand model and well i cant comment on this as i have never driven this model The 2003 - 2008 model is the Japanese Variant with a much more spacious and modern design. Its 1300 cc model Lags acceleration most of the time but does well in fuel averaging about 10-12. While the 1500 CC model does well in terms of acceleration much better but as the general logic it drops economy by 9-10. The interior is all plastic but well built and is much elegant. The seats are much wider and comfortable while offering All power shutters and mirrors and many more tech luxuries including Aux jacks for the factory stereo. Trims and parts available around the country and isnt much expensive comparatively. The 7 Speed CVT Gearbox is pretty much on the durability depending on the way you use it but offers quite smooth gear changes. But you can easily Blow this CVT so do be careful when looking for this car. Overall all what matters is what satisfies you most. Spend some time and inspect many options and go for one which suits you best. I personally recommend going for a Honda in terms of reliability and Comfort but it all depends on the way you maintain the car. Hope I helped. Please feel free to contact me if you need any further support!. And well theres many experts here so you myt be able to get a clear vision on this topic.. Thnx
  34. 1 point
    LP Gunaratne, Darley Road.
  35. 1 point
    OT... Interesting.. Merc GLA 1.6ltr with turbo gives 122 BHP. Kia Cerato with a 1.6 ltr naturally aspirated engine gives 124 BHP (BHP is engine efficiency. Nothing to do with other factors like weight)... So is Merc trying to tell their drivers... Slowen down mein herr!
  36. 1 point
    If you're looking for a good time, join the FB Suzuki Wagon R Hybrid owner's group. It's exactly like the Alto and Panda club, except the retards are wealthier.
  37. 1 point
    Can agree with this with my experience.
  38. 1 point
    The automatic version of the Gen2 (1600CC) had a gear box issue. Just check on that. Also the car gets run down very soon. Eg- The steering wheel gets tight, engine smoothness reduces drastically,etc. However spare parts are cheap. Just be careful with the gear box issue in the automatic version.
  39. 1 point
    How smooth... @Dina123 - my advice to you is stay away from car brokers. They get the bigger cut from the seller so you can guess the rest...
  40. 1 point
    Well many mechanics including very well known friends of mine arent that familliar with Malaysian cars so i'd say check with a mechanic around the place you inspect the car.. And well if ur extending your budget a bit more to 2.1Mil I'd suggest you spend a bit more time and find a car broker or a good friend from a car sale to help you out to find a better option. On the long run for everyday use i think its better for you to go for a Japanese car cuz every tom dick and harry will know basic diagnostics to check the car on a test run thoroughly and as i said its easier to handle around in terms of maintainence reliability and sales.. If you arent that familliar with many brokers or sales agents let me know ill check with some people i know..
  41. 1 point
    I hear some good reviews for the new 2017 BMW X1 model. The ride comfort seems to be the only issue, unless you go for smaller alloys. It seems to have been upgraded in most departments compared to the 2011 models running around in the country. I don't know the price, though, I expect it to come higher than your budget. BTW, the new Mini Countryman and Clubman are also worth looking into if you like the feel.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    If you are looking for a cheap and good tyre pick a tyre that falls in the mid range, Kumho would be the best for your requirement in my opinion. If you just want to dress up your car as 'recently replaced all four tyres' go for something like CE#T.
  44. 1 point
    I'm willing to by Peugeot 406 petrol car, But I'm worrying about spare parts availability and expert repair person... And how to select better Peugeot 406 from the current market... Please let me know reality of those things and how to overcome problems...
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    Top left photo is all the parts that went into the build: - Adjustable front and rear upper arms - Front and rear lower arms - Main prop shaft and prop shaft joints - Front and rear knuckles - Drive shafts and related components - Steering bridge - Adjustable steering tie rods Top middle and right photo: Deconstruction, and cleaning up dust, dirt and grime. A good blast of WD-40 and a wipe did the trick. Bottom left photo: All stock components removed from the car. Bottom middle photo: Installation of the prop shaft and joints Bottom right photo: Completed rear end More close-ups of the parts: And the finished product: It took me close to 4 hours to strip the car completely and install everything. Spent a couple of hours on top of that performing wheel alignment (now that upper arms and steering are adjustable). Following the specs in the installation instructions caused the car to be lowered. Since this is a rally spec chassis, I had to make sure I didn't deviate too much from the original height. The following photo with all parts installed according to the upgrade part specs. This is a bit too low for my liking. Would be ideal for a drift car though. The specs even gave the wheels a lot of negative camber and toe-in which I later corrected. After hours of adjusting, this is what I ended up with. Outward appearance is still the same: Hoping to take it for a spin this weekend! One thing yet to do is upgrade the bushings and bearings, I noticed that the stock plastic bushes had a bit of wear in them and thought of upgrading them to a ball bearing kit. The steering bridge kit already came with ball bearings (and is now so smooth - even the turning radius is shorter now), so the only bearings I need to upgrade are the 8 bearings on the drive line. Upgrade #1 for the future. The kit also came with 5.5 mm hex nuts for the wheels, but once they were installed, the wheels didn't sit flush with the wheel well, so I decided to go back to stock ones. Will probably go for a set of 7 mm ones later. This is upgrade #2. Also coming up is another build! During my recent visit home, I pulled out some old boxes of mine that were in storage at home and found my good old Ford F-150 truck! From memory, I got this truck when I was 12 years old or so. The circuit is fried and I couldn't source a battery for it, so I had to stop playing with it. After being kept in storage for over 2 decades, the tyres have become so hard, I had to use a hacksaw to cut them out of the rims. This truck has a two speed transmission. Hoping to bring it back to it's former glory. Will share updates when I begin the restoration.
  47. 1 point
    Never ever do that. 121 and 240 compressors are clutch driven and the 260 compressors are clutch-less variable displacement. 260 compressors tend to fail. When that happens some cheap asses bypass the electronics, gets a recon 121/240 compressor modifies it and fits it. Its larger compared to clutch-less compressor so will need some modifications. But believe me it won’t last long and will probably fall apart on the long run. Also it won’t give the same efficiency as the original compressor. So if the issue really is due to a failing compressor your best bet is to replace with a Jap recon 260 compressor. About a year ago, I replaced mine for 33,000/= including labour.
  48. 1 point
    Hi guys greetings to all I'm looking for a good used car (coz there aren't any unreg ones for my budget!) to buy for about 2.3 - 2.4 Mln (2003 or above) I searched autolanka & da h*t ads and I came up with da 2003 Lancer CS3 GLX model (images attached), I haven't driven one before but it seems really nice with a 1.6 engine with manual transmission and a good looking interior. The sad part is I'm clueless when it comes to the fuel efficiency, engine issues, durability, resale value, spare parts, spare parts cost and maintenance of this beauty. Sorry guys I'm newbie to the Mitsubishi world (also to the forum ) I used to drive a 1999 Nissan Pulsar CJ II (already sold) and have a March K11 at da moment which is awful when it comes to fuel economy. Also I would like to know the differences between da Lancer CS 1,2,3 models, GLX and GLS models and da CK 1,2 models. So if there are any lancer experts here kindly please enlighten me Thanx a lot guys....
  49. 1 point
    There's a shop in Darley Road, two shops from Weligama Motors towards the Fire Brigade. It's run by some folks in traditional Muslim attire. I forgot the name of the shop. They directly import those stuff and you can get from them for very low prices compared to other places. Most of the other shops buy from them and sell it for nearly double the price (with free installation). Note that they won't do any installation for you. You have to get it done from somewhere else.
  50. 1 point
    Yes!...It can improve even more if your current habbits are really bad.and remember that driving slow does not mean you are driving economically.
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