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  1. 3 likes
    Message received your honour. Your humble servants are working on it. Please forgive us, we will reply as soon as possible.
  2. 3 likes
    Damn. It has blown a hole right through the sidewall by the looks. I wouldn't use this tyre again if I were you, due to the extent of the damage.
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    You shouldn't have replaced the thermostat verifying the simple things first. Did you buy the correct replacement thermostat? Remember that thermostats have a temperature rating. If you put in one that is rated higher than your original one, it will not open at the right time and the engine will run a bit warmer. Anyway, since you have already done it, that's that. 1. If you have dual speed fans, make sure they work at the high speed as well as low speed. You should feel a strong flow of air when the fan operates at high speed. 2. It could be due to a clogged radiator. Especially if you use water instead of coolant. Any radiator shop should be able to clean the radiator for you. The process involves taking the radiator out of the car, disassembling the top and bottom tanks and cleaning each water line in the core to make sure that none of them have any blockages. You should have done this while replacing the thermostat IMO. 3. While the engine is cold, carefully remove the radiator cap, start the engine and let it reach operating temperature. While gently revving the engine, observe the flow of coolant through the radiator filler neck. You should see coolant flowing in one direction and the flow rate change based on the RPM of the engine. If the coolant look stagnated, then it could be that your water pump is busted. This is a bit of a complex repair, so be absolutely sure that all other possibilities are eliminated. 4. Air trapped inside the cooling system can cause the temp gauge to go up when going uphill. Since you replaced the thermostat, there is the likelihood of air being trapped in the system. The air needs to be bled out of the system. The procedure is pretty straight forward, and you can do this at home. Watch the video below and you will understand:
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    The idea behind this document is to create a guide to buying a used car in Sri Lanka. This is just my preliminary draft, and if it's useful I hope the experts here will add/edit it, and create a final detailed guide, which maybe could be posted somewhere in autolanka (if they think its useful) Buying a used vehicle in Sri Lanka (This applies to purchase of a used car regardless of the price/age, and applies to all registered and 'reconditioned' vehicles.) 1. tests you can perform: ================ Engine ==== Before starting: - check the engine oil. Is it at the correct level? Yes: OK/Owner topped up No: Owner does not top up, engine burning oil, etc Color of oil - Light brown/colorless - engine is running reasonably good/recent service - black - engine running bad/never serviced Note: diesels tend to have dark/black engine oil After starting Did it start easily? Yes: OK No: problems in engine/battery/starter motor/tune/etc. does the exhaust show visible smoke (white, black, bluish or grey smoke)? this coud indicate engine problems such as oil burning, worn engine etc. -- note: diesels do occationally smoke a bit, especially under acceleration does it maintain operating temperature? - listen to the engine in idle - do you hear clattering, rattling, or any odd sounds? they could indicate various problems ranging from bent valves to broken mounts? note: diesels are somewhat louder than normal gasoline engines Test drive =========== Lets say you decide to go for a test drive.. .. Step out of the vehicle, and ask the owner to get it out of his driveway/car sale etc. As he does this observe the vehicle, and see if it smokes or struggles during the procedure. Look at the place where the vehicle was parked. If there is visible engine oil/coolant, etc this could indicate problems in the vehicle. (water may be visible from the car's A/C, this is normal). Ask the owner to drive you: 1. Along a rough road (so you can test the suspension) 2. On a good road, ask the owner to drive up to at least 56km/h (or whatever local speed limit) so you can see how the vehicle performs at high speed. Turn OFF the radio and A/C and listen to the car for rattles/hums Tip: a hum from front/rear may indicate need to replace wheel bearings (or what our people refer to as razors) - Stop the car and ask the owner to back up a small hill, and observe the car exhaust for smoke, this is a good test of the clutch/etc. Actual test drive: - First make sure the vehicle has insurance and road licence which are valid. Ask to see them. Then test drive the vehicle very carefully. Make sure you have a good flat road and there is very little traffic. Remember its an unfamiliar vehicle and proceed with caution. First, test the clutch and brakes. The clutch should engage neatly before releasing the pedal fully. If it engages very late, it could mean a blown clutch plate. If there are clutch/brake problems, don't drive any further, and ask the owner to resume driving. And ask yourself whether you are sure you want to buy this car, from someone who couldnt even do basic maintenance. Reviewing the owner How the owner behaves during the test drive can give you a clue of how s/he uses the vehicle in real life. For example: - Does he roll down the window and drive (even though there is an A/C) - this may indicate that the A/C rarely worked. - Does he drive like a rally driver (in which case you can buy the car if you are willing to buy an extra engine, transmission and suspension) How has s/he spent on the car? If he has spent a lot on cosmetics while ignoring real existing mechanical problems, then you should probably consider another car. Is s/he straightforward and honest? Does what the owner says match up to what you see? For example, if the owner said the car had 2 owners in total and the log book copy shows 4 owners, then they could be lying about other things, and you should be cautious. Sometimes owners make mistakes, or simply don't know an answer, but overall if the owner appears to be honest and straightforward, that is a positive sign. [Ask Questions As you review the car, ask questions from the owner. If you see anything odd, ask about it. If the owner is honest and straightforward, its a positive sign. Try to gauge how much of what the owner is telling is the truth. A good way to do this is to pretend you don't know something and ask a question. After the test drive ============ After you return to the owners house/car sale, ask the owner to pop the hood and inspect the engine. - check temperature management. The gauge inside the car should be half or less. Aside from the gage, the engine should be reasonably managing temperature and the fans should be working properly. - Carefully tap the radiator cap with the tip of your finger. If it burns your finger off, the temperature management isnt good. Similarly the engine bay should not be boiling hot (unless it's a Nissan ) Physical inspection of vehicle ===================== 1. Visual inspection: simply look at the car - see if the lines are straight. Look at the paint. Uneven areas could indicate repainting. - look at the wheel arches. Look at the brakes. Look under the car (front/rear) If possible, take the car to a service station and inspect the underneath. If this is not possible, try to look under the car and see what is visible at least - (carry a flashlight with you when you go to see the car). - look for rust, damage, etc. - look at the engine compartment. Are there odd wires and do things look as if they have been messed with? Sometimes legitimate mods (e.g. alarm systems, aftermarket headlamps) require new wiring but if you see a mess inside, it probably means the wiring has been messed up by local mechanics in which case you should think carefully whether you really want this car. - (If the vehicle is cold) carefully open the radiator cap - check if it contains coolant, and if there is any signs of oil (could indicate a head leak) Look at the engine. If it has a slight layer of dust its OK. If it is shiny and has a layer of oil that means it has been washed at a service station. I prefer a car which has a normal slightly dusty engine vs one that has been washed and scrubbed to 'look' new. - look for leaks in radiator pipes. (with the engine off) remove the engine oil cover - if you can see nice clean silver metal with perhaps yellow brown color (engine oil) this is a positive sign. (note: diesels do tend to have dark/black engine interior, this refers to gasoline vehicles only). - Look at the fluid levels of the various fluids (power steering, brake fluid, auto transmission if auto) - if they are not up to level it could indicate leaks or careless owner. - if the vehicle is hot you may be able to open the radiator overflow tank (be careful) and check if he uses coolant. Not using coolant indicates: 1. Owner is an idiot 2. Radiator has leak and owner is topping it up with ordinary water. Either case, don't buy the car. 2. Tap test gently tap the body of the car, with a fingernail (dont rap it loudly) as you walk around. Check the hood, front left and right side and back carefully, also doors (as these are the main accident prone areas). Other general ideas: - Ask the owner what maintenance was performed. If he tells you a list of things replaced/repaired, this is usually a good sign and means the owner took some effort to look after car. - check the mileage? Mileage can be modified - but if it corresponds with the appearance of the vehicle then it could be accurate. - ask for receipts particularly for the timing belt/clutch etc HAS THE VEHICLE BEEN SERVICED/WASHED? If the owner was so cheap that he couldn't service the vehicle before he sold it, then do you really want to buy a car from him/her? *Exception*: Sometimes the owner may be actively using the car in which case it may be a bit dusty but all the same he/she should have washed/serviced/detailed the car within a few days of deciding to sell it. Now Consider the actual condition of the vehicle and make a list of all problems you encountered: Scenario 1: vehicle has major problems which can be fixed ===================================== for example: - Clutch plate gone. - brakes not too good. -minor suspension probs (e.g. weak shocks). - minor engine probs (e.g. poor tune up). Indicates that the seller was a cheap idiot (or typical local) Verdict: Buy with caution, knowing there could be other existing problems, and repair BEFORE YOU DRIVE said vehicle. Scenario 2: Vehicle has minor problems which can be fixed later ========================================= - A/C not running cold enough. - Minor dings, dents, scratches. - Minor cosmetic issues. Verdict: Buy the car, but set aside money to fix those problems later on. Scenario 3: Vehicle has major problems which can't be fixed easily =========================================== - Chassis problems (cracks/bent chassis) - major engine problems (e.g. grey/white/black smoke, burning oil, head gasket leaks) - major suspension/mechanical problems - gearbox problems which would necessitate replacing gear box... so on. Verdict: don't buy the car, unless you own a garage, have a million to spare, or are plain crazy. Other costs Aside from the above, there are a number of things you usually have to do, when purchasing ANY used car. These usually include: - Insurance & road licence. - 4 tires. - full service/oil change/air filter etc. - brake pads/etc - New battery (if existing battery not too good). - Timing belt (if close to 100k km's or multiples of that). Many people will say they replaced the belt, they could be lying. It's easier to spend 10k and replace it than to undergo a broken belt and engine rebuild. If they have replaced the belt, you can get a good garage to visually inspect it. signs of a good vehicle: - Vehicle is clean. (As in, the owner has washed, cleaned, and serviced it.) - is in good mechanical condition (good engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, body) - owner has focused on maintaining the mechanical condition of the vehicle - Vehicle has been maintained properly and scheduled maintenance has been done, e.g. brakes, clutch, timing, etc have been replaced at the proper intervals as necessary. - owner cares about vehicle, services regularly, engine oil is not dirty - owner is upfront and honest about any flaws. - owner uses a good garage for maintenance, and used original/quality components Suggestion 1: To all the experts here, can you please add your comments/suggestions tips on buying a used car. Suggestion 2: Would it be possible for Autolanka readers/Admins to set up a car pricing guide? This could be something updated regularly to show average true market values (like edmunds.com) and be useful to people looking to purchase a car. If any Autolanka readers have suggestions on what they check when buying a used car, please add them here. Update: Top gear have some excellent tips here: http://www.topgear.com/content/buyersguides/02/8.html
  5. 3 likes
    Why do I smell cheap advertising?
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    Ford is a brand not a car model, and you guessed wrong. Because there is no need to guess, Crosswind has already mentioned where the cars were manufactured.
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    If it is mineral oil you need not worry but make sure to change it every 6 months even if the mileage is low.
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    His highness is impatient and cannot waste his royal time. Reply soon you peasant....!
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    To be honest, 300,000 for an engine replacement job is a steal (labour charges are very reasonable too). You can't replace the engine of a Japanese diesel car at this cost. A 3C engine alone would cost more than 300k. Labour and all the subsequent problems associated with a Japanese conversion would have set you back by at least 500k so I'm glad we helped make the right decision. I'm thinking of taking my Focus to Volmec if I need to get any work done. Ford Focus and Volvo s40 share the same internals (apparently about 60% of the components are shared between the two) so Asanga might be a good option. How busy is the guy?
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    Now car runs very smoothly and pulling power got back. Project Cost: Total project cost was around Rs.300,000/= for purchasing the engine + gearbox , shipping , clearing, engine transportation, vehicle transportation, installation donor engine and bring the car up to final stage including all costs. Cost of the work done at Volmec: (Hope this is not violate any forum rules) 1. Engine replacement LKR 18,500.00 2. Injectors cleaning and pressurizing x 4 LKR 11,200.00 3. Injector pump testing and service LKR 8,750.00 4. Re-making of wiring harness LKR 2,350.00 5. Oil seal pack x 4 LKR 12,150.00 6. Timing belt LKR 8,300.00 7. CV boot LKR 1,440.00 8. Mobil diesel oil LKR 5,600.00 9. Radiator cleaning and pressure test LKR 2,150.00 10. Diesel tank cleaning LKR 2,500.00 11. Drive belt LKR 8,500.00 12. Engine service and cleaning LKR 2,500.00 13. Oil filter LKR 1,500.00 14. Power steering oil LKR 850.00 15. Gear box oil 90W LKR 1,500.00 16. Diesel refill LKR 1,000.00 17. A/C refill and service LKR 5,500.00 18. Brake oil flush and refill LKR 3,500.00 19. Interior cleaning LKR 8,000.00 TOTAL LKR 105,790.00 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I would like to express my heartiest thank to following gentlemen. (1) Our Moderator Supra Natural & member Crosswind for pushing me to replace a Volvo engine instead of Japanese engine and suggesting me to import used Volvo engine from UK. (2) Our Moderator The Don for finding the correct engine , arranging shipment and guiding me with all instructions. (3) Member Maersk for giving me hint about Volmec. (4) Asanga of Volmec for doing a neat and great job within a short period. Asanga also a Volvo enthusiast from his childhood and he own a Volvo S60. When the technician himself is a car lover, project flows very smoothly with caring nature. (5) All other Autolanka members whom extended me all valuable ideas, instructions and kind support thorough out the project. Volley is handed over to the original owner; my uncle and he is very happy with his pride ride back. It’s a Volvo Cheers!!! Sampath Gunasekera
  11. 2 likes
    That structural wakness will remain no matter how it's repaired,..
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    Cleaning it is a step carried out to prevent the chances of replacing a working sensor. It's standard procedure for any sensor. This is why I said 1.Clean 2.Check wiring 3.Test sensor. Also, we really can't conclude why the problem happens exactly two times. That isn't really relevant to the diagnosis in this case. However, the VSS generates electrical pulses which is measured by the gauge cluster and the ECU. A faulty unit can result in one or two pulses to be dropped intermittently. The ECU waits for a certain amount of time/occurrences before raising the Check Engine light. This is because a problem can be a one off issue that may never occur again. When the ECU reaches a threshold, the indicator is illuminated. That's how it works for pretty much all errors. So there's a good chance for the issue to happen the exact number of times during a trip. Also, the VSS signal is what's used to move the speedometer and tick up the odometer. There is a good chance for there to be a relationship between the distance and the Check Engine indicator. I had an issue with a camshaft position sensor once where the car would stall evey 15 minutes or so. And it would not start until the engine was cool again. We really can't explain the relationship between time, but in my case it was heat causing the sensor to fail. If you have a look at a workshop manual, based on what the error code is, evey error has a list of possible causes and a list of steps to diagnose it. None of them say "if the issue happens x amount of times, check this", "if the issue happens in the morning, check this" etc. OP simply has to follow the steps suggested regardless of the frequency, distance or time of day. Hope this answers your question.
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    I would never take the car there but buy the stuff from there and get it fitted elsewhere many items found in Darley road are found elsewhere too at a slightly higher price (Dehiwela,Maharagama,Delkanda,Ratmalana etc) but considering the pertol cost to go to Mardana and the hassle its actually much cheaper to do it elsewhere
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    Then keep a note of the fan speed (better with AC off so that you get only the noise of radiator fan) when it first kick in. Then when the heat goes to 3/4 pull the car over to a side without stopping the engine and observe the radiator fan with AC off. You should be able to clearly see the fan running at a higher speed than before. Edit: Another thing you can observe at the same time is to switch off the engine and see if the fan continues to run for a while. AFAIK this feature is activated only when the ECU detects a high temp situation. This observation will help in determining if ECU actually detects the high temperature or not.
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    This is what I found doing my own research. Hybrid system in Porsche is comparatively reliable in our local conditions. In fact agent has never replaced a hybrid related component in Sri Lanka. Extended warranty up to 10 years is available with agents (240K per year). Most of the service components are shared with other VW family vehicles ( Audi Q7/ VW Toureg). Thus service items could be locally sourced. Brake and suspension components are unique for Porsche and have to sourced from the local agent. Since the Hybrid version is very uncommon in the UK ( in fact TDI version is more fuel efficient and cheaper in UK market) will face a difficulty in importing used spare parts.
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    Good stuff Sampath! Glad to see her get a new lease of life with the right parts. More happy that you didn't go down the path of using an engine from a Japanese car. Since you have invested in an original engine for the car with the greatest difficulty, why not use a new timing belt as kush has said above? At least get it thoroughly checked before installation. I personally would get it replaced for peace of mind. The pulleys on the old engine would have caused the belt to wear out in a certain way, so the belt might not sit perfectly on the pulleys. Highly unlikely, but just pointing it out the possibility. Also, this once again shows how amazing our community is. We have great members on the forum who would go the extra mile for others. I myself now personally know many members on the forum because we have helped each other out in good and difficult times. Kudos @The Don. Wish you were more active here. Good luck with the project Sampath! Keep this thread posted.
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    I would not take a chance with the old timing belt considering the car was idle for few years
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    Leather interior is badly affected due to fungal growth and need to clean and apply leather treatment. Car with donor engine
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    Well....that seems to be the common story. Considering Bertone did the designs for Alfa and pretty much was designing sedans until Alfa decided to go with the in-house designed Giuletta (and not send Bertone the memo); the story is plausible. However, Mazda as well as some other parties do not necessarily admit that the Luce/1500 was a rejected Alfa. In fact the original renderings and prototypes apparently have a proposed Mazda logo and the dates stamped on the concept drawings apparently suggest that the design was originally for Mazda. The fact that the Luce has a lot of Alfa's design cues are sited to mazda as Bertone's influence on both brands. Interesting read: http://www.curbsideclassic.com/automotive-histories/automotive-history-mazda-bertone-and-the-alfa-that-wasnt/
  20. 2 likes
    Some interesting facts found out at Colombo Motor Show
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    A little taste of what to expect at this year's Ceylon Motor Show..
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    There is nothing wrong with that color and that car looks pretty nice (granted the red drums in the rear seem a bit ricey). If you don't like red that is your choice and your problem not the car's. In a country like Sri Lanka you really can't be picky about things like color (especially with second hand cars). If it is good..buy it I say...save some money paint it darker later on I say....focus on the positives of the car and its potential.
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    None taken, I too agree, darker red would've been better, something like this
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    In colombo, nowhere is safe, there are no solutions for parking issues. Just park wherever is free in a parking slot or leave the car at home/office and go in a cab.
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    During a brake fluid flush, the new brake fluid is added, and the system is bled until the old fluid is flushed out of the system together with a bit of new fluid as well. So you don't have to worry about them mixing. Besides, DOT3 and DOT4 can be safely mixed and I'm sure it doesn't cause any damage to the system.
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    This is a common issue with the Vitz. After a certain time the engine starts to vibrate in low revs. we were told it can't be repaired. I am not sure about this but the mechanic who Checked it said something about the car having Gel engine mounts that doesn't last as long as normal mounts. And evert single 1000cc Vitz I have come across have this low rpm vibrating issue.
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    It's the fan.. Check the fan for issues said in above post.check the blowing direction too
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    Must have gone backwards all the way
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    If it has a cable, then it could be because one or more metal wires of the cable have snapped and jammed inside the casing. First check if there's something obstructing the accelerator pedal by inspecting the area and manually pushing the pedal all the way down with your hand. Then inspect how the cable goes to the throttle body/carburettor and check if there are sharp bends and damages in the cable. If you can't find anything with the pedal and cable, unhook the cable from the engine side and try gently stepping on the accelerator to see if you still feel excessive friction. If you do, spray some WD-40 into the cable housing and keep pulling the cable from either end alternatively so that it lubricates the entire cable. You can use some machine oil or engine oil as a substitute. If the cable is loose and slides easily, it might be that the carburettor/throttle body hinges need lubrication. If not, it might be the acceleration hinges or the cable itself is damaged internally. It will have to be taken out, inspected and replaced if necessary.
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    A brand new Skyline GT-R R32 V Spec-II N1. No its not for sale.... She was apparently displayed at the NISMO Festival in Japan over the weekend
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    This is not directly related to Porsche but VW. I own a VW Transporter and bring down spare parts directly from Germany whenever is necessary. The agent costs in general 2-3 times as much as direct import. For example clutch kit + flywheel costs around 400000 from the agent whereas I brought them down for only 80000. The independent workshop that you mentioned use Chinese no-name parts sometimes which I don't like. Plus they messed up with my vehicle even though the charge was quite high. If you own a vehicle from VW group you should own their Elsawin and Etka software. That way you can get yourself familiar with components of your car and related repairs. Actually I do most of repairs on my vehicle by myself now. This is the final outcome of being ripped off by all major workshops out there!
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    Avoid the euro cars as generally they require more maintenance than a japanese car... are u looking at saloons or small cars?
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    Out of your 2 main requirements, I would go for the stingray. In the subject of fuel efficiency stingray will do outstandingly better than the other cars that you have mentioned. Stingray will do around 20 kmpl in city area averagely between full tank to full tank intervals. In the long trips it can do up to the 30kmpl between refillings. Toyota vitz is kind of a old model ( K number) for your budget now and it's better to go for a new hybrid car. Toyota wigo and perudua axia both are rebadged versions of the same car. But for the value of 3 millinon, it's not worthy.
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    Well the car market in SL is actually full of BS. Well diesel converted Europeans are cheap due to the engine conversion reason, no resale value but only a one who is desperate to call himself owning a prestige automobile will buy, or you can buy and replace the original engine and up the market price Furthermore you can go for a Corolla 110 if you can up your margin by 150,000. Nissan FB/SB 14 is also good. Diahatsu Mira/Daihatsu Coure is also good, but a compact car. Perodua kelisa
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    welcome to the forum. Similar topics were discussed extensively. I'm sure most of the cars mentioned here were covered - other than maybe the Wigo. (which I assume is more or less in the same league as the Axia but with a toyota badge - which in SL is probably worth more than the car's engine itself ) here are a few threads i dug up within a minute there were many others like these
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    Before interior cleaning After interior cleaning (I have observed many Volvos here and Black leather interior is much better than the Beige interior in Volvos with the time being)
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    I thought that thread is for all Demios. Ok my bad.
  38. 1 like
    hi I changed the thermo switch (temp sensor). I drove up hill. Looks fine gauge is steady bit below the middle mark. πŸ˜ƒπŸ˜Š thanks everyone for giving me valuable comments on this. I'll update other thread regarding the vibration on drive with brake. 😊
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    The 10th generation Lancer did not undergo any major changes during it's lifetime from 2008 to date. At least not in the models offered in Sri Lanka. So you are really not comparing different cars. I assume it's the same with the Axio. So the discussion in that thread can be continued to match the current day situation. Imagine the situation if 100 members want to compare these two cars. There will be 100 redundant threads on the forum. We like to keep things organised here, so members are always encouraged to find existing threads and post in them if they are comparing identical vehicles or if the information they're seeking is the same. This particular thread I've shared is not the only thread discussing the Lancer EX or the Axio. There are several other threads that discuss each car on their own, so read up. As a matter of fact, the two of the issues you have highlighted are already discussed in their individual threads: As an owner of the 10th generation Lancer that has 126,000 km on the clock right now, I can say that if the car has been maintained properly, none of these issues will bother you. The rattling issue in the first thread above is because the owner drove the car in really bad roads and ignored the rattling sound when the issue initially popped up. I'm not sure about the EPS issue, but most Lancer EXs came with hydraulic power steering according to my knowledge and I haven't heard of any of them giving trouble since they are pretty straightforward systems. None of these issues are running repairs, they are totally based on how the car was used and maintained. The ABS issue was there on the initial versions of the car, but was later rectified and even the agent repaired it FOC on the ones that had it. Please read up! I didn't bother searching for Axio threads, but I'm pretty sure you will find more than enough information on that as well.
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    Yep I realized that after seeing your Mustang thread. Welcome to AL btw
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    Guys I bought a Suzuki SX4 hatchback. Sadly I couldn't find a good Demio to buy. Still a big thank go to generous people who share their knowledge to help me( and others who read this conversation later ). Thank you very much.
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    Hi. Infact it's made in Maldives. Slightly better than a car manufactured in India.
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    Yeap, I've heard that as well; but according to google that's an old wive's tale and they are compatible to mix (DOT 4 and 3 that is, the TDi forum swears that 5 and 4 should not be mixed). Also as our pal Davy says, during a flush almost all the old brake fluid gets pumped out and then bleed out so very little of the old stuff remains. As you're at the 2 year limit you'll have to do a flush (pump the old stuff out and bleed the brakes) and once you do that, if you go with DOT 4 you should sitting pretty. However, if shit goes down, and all hell breaks loose (pun intended) I take absolutely NO responsibility as all this was presumed mostly on what I read off google....I kid, I kid! I've mixed DOT 3 and 4 when I had the Mazda, as I was too cheap to do a proper flush. I just drained out the the old brake fluid and refilled it up with DOT 4, and it was fine. (In my defense: I'm not sure what happens at the agents but this is what most smaller, under the mango tree places do anyway.) With a proper flush you should have nothing to worry about.
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    Let me start with the gasoline variant... The gasoline models are coded as TRH and not KDH Along with the face lift which came out in 2014 the TRH model received a new gearbox, hence it would be better if you could stretch your budget buy one of those, but the KDH models remained the same mechanically since 2010. The TRH has slightly better traction when going up hills due to a lower bottom end torque and the peak torque sitting at a higher engine speed. It's sometimes quite difficult drive a KDH up steep hills cuz it would just keep spinning/slipping the rear wheels (unless of course if you have a KDH205/206) the purchase price is cheaper too and the difference in fuel price per litre isn't that big either. On to the diesel models. As it's the more common option it's of course easier to sell The diesel engine has a higher torque and with the turbo it has a quicker acceleration and better pulling. But the TRH has a higher horsepower As usual diesel engines do better in fuel during long drives. My Hiace will happily sit at 1800RPM when I'm doing 80-100km/h with AC on. If you are looking only at the flat roof model the diesel variant has an AWD model too. You can find parts for KDH pretty easily, even 1KD engines have started coming down and some spare parts shop will even sell you as parts (rather than the whole engine). In short, if you're mostly going to use it for city running and that too occasionally with few passengers, buy a TRH If you are going to spend driving long distance on open roads and need to carry lot of people or stuff with you, buy a KDH.
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    check if your knock sensor is working properly.as it adjusts the engine settings to avoid it pre detonating.SL high octain stuff has been discussed in depth here and has been causing probs to owners for as long as I can remember. It is possible that you got an extra shot of kerosene in your lst fill-up.? Don't wash the engine.electronics and water don't go togeather,..and make the most complexed hard to find faults.from abs to engine mis-fires.
  48. 1 like
    .... now what did I say earlier about locking the thread?
  49. 1 like
    Why not replace the housing? You can find them in darley road.
  50. 1 like
    Hello Firstly what are you looking at. Do you want a merc, petrol or diesal, is the budget limited etc. 1. 2 mil - depends on the model, type of converstion, original engine, how did they couple the gear box ( depending on the mdl) and 2. If it's conversion to match teh original spec and done properly there isn't much of an issue 3. Mercs generally are quite easy to maint and you get mostly original or OEM parts at competitive pricing. 4. Spare parts freely available, at the agents, private shops. good luck and welcome..
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