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Rumesh88 last won the day on November 25 2016

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About Rumesh88

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  1. Excessive vibration at a certain RPM is a sign of bad engine mounts. You need to decide whether the issue is with ignition system or the mounts. Does the vibration occur even if you accelerate in neutral? If so get someone to slowly accelerate and listen to exhaust sound for a miss in the engine beat. If you do not experience the vibration with gear in neutral but only when the drive is loaded then the problem is more likely to be with ignition system. Get the continuity of wires and coils tested just to be sure.
  2. If it is mineral oil you need not worry but make sure to change it every 6 months even if the mileage is low.
  3. If the dealer is that confident then you will have to get the rings changed i am afraid. Until you get it done you can run with 10W-30 but keep monitoring the oil level regularly for any reduction and fill up as required. It is not possible for the car to breakdown suddenly due to this kind of issue.
  4. Are the plugs Iridium or regular? I cannot see an iridium tip in the pic. BTW how often do you inspect the plugs? Let alone the oil deposits but the plug itself is way over due for a replacement IMO.The smoke in the morning can sometimes be steam but if it is oil you get a oil burning smell and if so it could be due to stuck or worn out piston rings particularly if it happens only when the engine is cold. Best thing is to get a compression test done (still better done when the engine is cold). Ask them to do a "wet test" as well by pouring in a small amount of oil on to the piston to determine if the valve guide are leaking. Switching to 10W-30 may reduce oil burning but will not solve it. Another thing you can try is to pour a tea spoon of engine oil on to each piston head (one has to use a syringe and a tube to get access through the plug hole to do it cleanly. Same thing is done during a "wet test"), fix the plugs back and leave the car for a couple of days before starting again. (Perhaps you may have to call up a mechanic to do it at your home). This might loosen up the deposits on the chamber side of the rings and may set them free if they are stuck. It is not a permanent fix but will help in identifying the issue and perhaps may solve it hopefully for another few thousand kms.
  5. The images are not visible in my browser for some reason. However, something does not add up to the given mileage figures. For 03 years you have run 68000 kms ie 23,900 kms a year, ie less than 2000 kms a month. If the daily run is 160 kms then it is a 12 day run a month on average. Although you run 160 kms a day do you leave the car idle regularly for extended periods like 2 weeks in between? Then there is a possibility for deposits to form on moving parts. BTW how often do you change oil? Before deciding to go for a piston rings change get a compression test done and sort out if the oil burn is through piston rings or valve guides. Do you get any white smoke on high revs? Use of 10W30 oil for some time should not be a reason for the oil burn assuming the services was done regularly on time.
  6. Plug gap is 1.1 mm. You need not expect much expertise from the mechanic to do it. All what is needed is a plug box spanner and a feeler gauge (better if it is wire type). Of course, the gap adjustment is a bit more critical with the type of ignition coil arrangement found in M13A engines because of the "wasted spark" technique. Also get the continuity of two carbon fibre plug wires checked with a muti-meter. The reading should be something like 3k -5k ohms. You can get the continuity of the two ignition coil output windings checked (not sure of the exact figure but should be something like 3k to 5k ohms again. The value not important but it should not be open circuit) at the same time if that has not been done by the tune up guy.
  7. And as for the possibility of "insurance guys making a fuss" just make sure the policy covers use of the car for business purposes in addition to personal use.
  8. Based on the given description it is too early to conclude it is your fan that needs replacing. Does the radiator fan run when you switch on AC even if the engine is cold? You need to confirm it is the fan or the relay which is operating the fan or if the issue is in sensing the temperature. Also if the engine heat goes only 25% up in heater gauge scale at times I get the feeling that someone must have removed the thermostat before to circumvent the issue instead of solving it?
  9. Why do you open different threads for each issue you have with your Hijet? Request mods to merge them.
  10. Obviously if your fuel pressure regulator or the fuel return line is clogged up you will have a higher fuel pressure. If the regulator is clogged up either get it cleaned or replace it. Is it the same van BTW
  11. Glad to hear that your issue is resolved. Tire pressure or more correctly the wheel speed is monitored and would give you a warning through ABS system if the pressure is low (or the rotational speed is consistently high) in one tyre compared to others. But it is not P0500 code. However, who knows, the ECU may think differently based on its design algorithms and it is a possible cause for the code. Gas pressure or a vacuum is formed when fuel is pumped out. The gas cap has a pressure release mechanism when the vacuum is excessive. The integrity of this system is monitored with a routine EVAP control test but will not produce code P0500.
  12. It is also possible that one of the plug boots or plug wire on the coil-on-plug ignition packs or even a pack itself is leaky. Best approach is to refer the matter back to Dhammika now that the issue is different.
  13. If you read the above figure (98 C) through OBD port then you may have a problem with the ECT sensor (I said "may" because on the other hand your gauge could be inaccurate). For all what I know the fan starts at 97.5C at slow speed and switches to high speed at 102.5C. If you read a figure of 98C through OBD port then your ECU is doing its job by starting the fan at the right apparent temperature but by then if the gauge goes above half mark then actual coolant temperature may be a couple of degrees above 98C assuming the gauge is correct. I hope you get what I mean here.
  14. In that case go for a CVTF change as recommended at 30k kms. It is worth cleaning OCV filter then, and also PCV if that too remained unattended at the last tune up. Both are very simple jobs but the mechanic should have the right tool (7mm or 8mm) to remove the OCV filter Allen key. Otherwise he may end up spoiling the Allen key slot.
  15. Was the CVTF change done at the agents? Was the fluid sump removed and cleaned? The change interval may depend on to what extent the old fluid was drained and how good/bad the old fluid was. Any idea how many litres of fluid was filled? (Asked all these questions just to get an idea how the fluid change was done). What do you mean by low performance on hard acceleration? Is the engine sluggish? if so is it at low speeds (say below 30) or high speeds (say above 80)? Was the OCV (Oil Control Valve) filter inspected/cleaned/changed during the tune up?