• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Rumesh88 last won the day on November 25 2016

Rumesh88 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

721 Excellent


About Rumesh88

  • Rank
    Pro Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Whatever on wheels

Recent Profile Visitors

1,743 profile views
  1. Well, to me it looks like what @Crosswind pointed out above as an early signs of a gasket leak. Do you find any gray color oily residue on the bottom rubber seal of the radiator cap? How about engine temperature particularly when held up in traffic on sunny days? Does the heat indicator go above half-mark on the gauge often? This gurgling noise that you mentioned is a bit subjective - is it more like a engine knock when ignition is too advanced? BTW do you know when the timing belt was last changed?
  2. Some confusion here with the terminology used to describe the issue I believe. Knock (or ping) in an automotive context is the pre-detonation of fuel mixture due to various reasons like advanced ignition timing, lower octane fuel, hot-tipped spark plugs etc. But apparently what OP experiencing here seems to be an occasional engine miss and the resulting jerk. If you suspect the ignition coils for causing the engine miss, then remove them from the engine block and inspect their outer body (and the engine block too) closely for evidence of corona discharge marks. Of course it is not a complete test for there could be an internal leak in a coil that results in a weak spark etc, but it could give you a firsthand clue if you are lucky. Otherwise follow Sierra Charlie's advice above.
  3. Well, there is a confusion in the terminology used in your caption and description here. Releasing clutch means disengaging it by pressing the clutch pedal. Releasing clutch pedal means engaging the clutch by taking your foot off the pedal.
  4. You say "releasing the clutch" "stuck a bit" - I hope you mean that when the clutch pedal is depressed slowly it is not releasing the clutch as expected and get a feeling that the clutch is stuck and you are unable to change gears smoothly. If so it is a sign that a washer inside the master or slave cylinder is about to fail. Get both master and slave mechanisms inspected and washers replaced with a repair kit.
  5. Assuming your car has a throttle cable first thing to do is to lubricate the cable and see if the tightness disappears. It is a DIY job for some but not for all. What is required is to dismount the cable from throttle mechanism and pour some oil (engine oil would do) little by little into the cable sheath while moving the cable to and fro (you can use a masking tape to temporarily make a funnel around the sheath). Tightness can be due to few other things like throttle mechanism but a sticky cable is the most frequent cause. What is the car model BTW? Edit: Davy beat me to it and his reply above gives a better description than mine.
  6. Motors inside the power mirrors are protected against over-current. The usual and the simplest form of protection is based on a PTC thermistor in series with the motor (more sophisticated designs use stall detection and over current detection). When parked under the sun for sometime the temperature inside the mirror can reach something like 60 -70C which would result in narrowing PTC's operating temperature window and can cause it operate prematurely. TBH I do not see a solution to it unless you can find an OEM replacement of different thermal specs for the motor. Meantime, you can try ad hoc cooling methods like wrapping the mirror with a wet towel (In fact it remind me of wrapping ignition coils of old cars with wet towels to bring the temperature down) while parked under the sun .
  7. Sounds normal to me too except for whatever the whirring sound after the engine was switched off.
  8. Tappet noise is not a serious thing and would not cause any damage to the engine although a bit annoying at times. If you are familiar with the mechanism the noise is due to excessive gap between cam lobes and valve stems. You need not remove the engine head (which in usual terminology refers to the part where tappets and valves fixed to) but the tappet cover to adjust tappets.
  9. In that case the scope is not what I had in mind. Also you can try a whole bungalow with a river by the side to take a dip in instead of a pool. If you don't mind travelling a bit more and a colder climate try That's a hotel and a bungalow together. However ,with your budget and other requirements I think Diya Ulpotha is the place for you.
  10. Is it for the coming weekend or February 14th? If it the latter I can recommend you more romantic and spooky places.
  11. Village End Bope and Diya Ulpotha Tea Garden Resort
  12. Fully agree with Davy's comments above. I know a colleague of mine who changed two motors within a couple of years time. If you can fix a temporary one and get a stable idle speed you can follow the steps below to test the original one to some extent. Bring the engine to a stable idle at the working temperature with AC off and stop it. Remove the existing motor, fix the temporary one and start the engine. If you inspect the pintel of the removed motor it should now be almost fully extended. Stop the engine remove the stepper motor connector and connect it to the original one which is in your hand. Start the engine again (but do not rev up at all during starting) holding the motor in hand (position is a bit awkward so take care) so that you can feel when the motor is working (or struggling to move). Now slowly rev up the engine to 2500 RPM and hold it for about 10 seconds. The stepper should retract smoothly. Now slowly release the throttle. The stepper motor should move the pintle to its original position in a smooth manner. If the stepper motor struggles to move at any point in its range of motion then it is a sign that it is packed up. You can get your mechanic to do the test. Also keep in mind that mechanics have a habit of swapping this kind of accessories between cars unless you keep a close eye on them. Hope the one on the engine now is the original part that you bought is.
  13. Well, for me the issue boils down to the stepper motor for the following two reasons although it has been replaced once. 1. Cold start revs at 1000 RPM is on the lower side, which means the stepper motor is not retracting enough to open the air passage to rev up more. 2. While on the run if you take your foot off suddenly the engine knocks and stalls. Again this is a sign that the stepper motor is not retracting back fully and be ready for a sudden throttle closure when the engine is operating at cruising speeds. Did you replace the motor with an original new one or a used/after-market one? Did you have the same issue with same symptoms before you changed the stepper motor or were the symptoms different then?
  14. @88_NANA, how about your cold start? Does the car rev up to around 1500 RPM and then slowly come down as the engine warms up (do this with AC off for a better observation)?
  15. This has been discussed and debated over a few times in the forum if you take your time to search. Agent will recommend you a change in every 40,000 kms for transmission fluid. As for engine oil you can use either 0W20 or 5W20 for local conditions but change it every 5000kms or six months whichever comes first. At least that's a safe bet, although if you search the Net you would find recommendations for much longer service intervals for Aqua and similar Toyota hybrids. Both these things depends on whether you drive mostly in stop-and-go heavy traffic in the city or in less congested roads and the load that you carry.