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Rumesh88 last won the day on March 6

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About Rumesh88

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  1. Would you expect better analytical skills from an average mechanic? Obviously his analysis was based on wrong presumptions. Even now he may try to fool you if you go back to him. Better get the car scanned by someone else and stored codes noted.
  2. Yes precisely. Some one must have already bypassed CEL indication when the ECU detected some other issue and went into fail safe mode. Since the CEL indication did not pop up mechanics went on a wild goose chase. However, in spite of all that if you got the car scanned you would have seen the real fault code.
  3. paint

    Keep a piece of cotton wool or a cloth soaked in coconut oil on the sap mark overnight. Wash off the next day.
  4. No that is NOT normal if the makabass has done the bypass properly. Usually they disconnect it from the original wiring and wire it parallel with the oil pressure alarm. Then you get the visual effect you described but it will not indicate a fault when one occurs in the system. If you want to test it, while the engine is running ask your mechanic to disconnect a sensor like IAT, MAF, TPS or cam position sensor - whatever sensor easily accessible and safely removable - and see if you get the indication. I am sure that you would not get the indication in your case suggesting a bypass of CEL.
  5. Check/clean/replace the PCV. Check if there is a negative pressure in the crank case (one method explained here - ) If the engine is say over 10 -15 years old like in OP's case (Engines 4E-FE, 5E-FE, 1NZ-FE, 1SZ-FE etc), you need to open the cam cover and clean baffles. It is easily said than done because the gunk sometimes is hard like cured cement and to add to that some baffles (Ex: 1SZ-FE as I remember) cannot be opened up for cleaning. So you need to spend lot of time soaking the cam cover in a diesel bath overnight and repeatedly cleaning it something you cannot usually persuade a mechanic to do.
  6. Your car is on "fail safe mode" I believe. When it goes to this mode the fuel pump runs only when the engine is started. Do you have a CEL (Check Engine Light) indication on the dash? First make sure the CEL indication is actually working. Our makabasses have a habit of bypassing CEL to hide faults they cannot trace or repair. I am pretty sure that is the case with your car. Get the car scanned, note all stored fault codes and get them attended and car cleared of all fault codes first. Then get the CEL indication to work. I don't think your original pump was faulty.
  7. It is a sign of oil vapor getting past oil baffles (in the cam cover for most engines) and ending up in the air intake through the breather hose. It could be due to a bad PCV and/or clogged up oil baffles.
  8. That's because of the typical Sri Lankan mentalityIMO! We do not know how to let things go when the time comes but choose to cling on to whatever unnecessary things for trivial reasons. In the end, we do not enjoy, nor are content with whatever we have now but instead keep on worrying about what we might lose in future.
  9. What is the viscosity of the engine oil you are using? Is it 10w30, 15W40 or 20W50? Observe any oil residues on the air cleaner?
  10. Welcome to the forum. If you search the forum with string bothal carb you will find a few previous posts on the subject. The term bothal carb BTW is the local jargon for variable venturi carb. Does the engine idle speed rev up at the cold start and then gradually come down after a few minutes? Can you identify the automatic choke mechanism (IACV) which is attached to the side of the carb with two coolant lines connected? If so you should be able to visually observe its operation beginning with cold start to fully warmed up by keeping an eye on its cam mechanism. Either you have an issue with IACV or you have a vacuum leak somewhere (that may be why idle returns to normal when you stop). Are all your vacuum connections in tact ie they are properly connected and not by passed or blocked? Also check if there is a vacuum leak in your brake booster (How to perform a DYI check is explained here
  11. I do not what their exact explanations are but I bought a GP5 with same specs and recommendation almost a year back. So far no issues with the car.
  12. To check the alternator correctly, switch on all electrical loads (ie head lights and AC), rev the engine to 2000 rpm and measure the battery voltage with a digital meter. You should get a reading of not less than 13.8 volts.
  13. Cut and polish to remove cement dots? I thought hardness of cured Portland cement is greater than that of auto paint. Instead use a little vinegar or fresh lemon juice on the stains for a few minutes (time depends on thickness of the dots) to soften them and then wash off immediately.
  14. 1. "Reputed" is subjective isn't it? So why not pay a visit to the agents. After all you wouldn't change transmission oil as often as engine oil. So better to do it at the agents and post your experience here. 2. It is perfectly OK. BTW oil change interval is either 5000 kms or 6 months whichever comes first. 3. No. You do not need a "flush". Just change oil and filter both.
  15. BKR5E is standard gap which should be 0.7mm whereas BKR5E-11 is 1.1 mm gap. It is always better to use the recommended one but other properties being equal with BKR5E-11, the gap in a BKR5E can be adjusted to 1.1mm.