Lancer Cs1 Idle Issue

[trinity]

HI guys.. Good day to you all..

Having a problem with the car idling from couple of months now, and treatments did to fix it proving to be ineffective.

I’ve spoken with fellow user “Davy” in this regard and he offered me to take the car to his mech on a free day. Since he is not available for another couple of weeks or so, thought to get some insight from you guys before I go there..

Really appreciate your knowledge and input on the matter.

The Car

Lancer CS1

Year - 2001

Engine – 4G13 (Carb)

ODO – 113,500

The Issue

This started couple of months back out of nowhere.

Cold Start - When the car is on idle, RPM levels around 900 as usual, when A/C is switched on RPM goes down a little (Maybe to 700 or so) and comes up to 900 smoothly. So everything is normal is here.

Observations – At the cold start, car does not pull as it should and tend to stall if I release the clutch and accelerate to move forward. To avoid stalling either I should rev the engine for couple of seconds in neutral or engage the clutch as when you climbing a hill after stopping. This is in 1 st gear.

The real issue occurs when I drive couple of KMs and the engine gets heated up.

In the idle with A/C is switched on, RPM levels at 1000. Then when the A/C fan stops, RPM comes down to about 900 and when they starts back, RPM drops to about 200 and comes up to 900 or 1000 with a big wobble.

Then this behavior continues. Every time fans kicks in car wobbles without power to cope.

Sometimes Engine stalls due to this.

When the car is on the move on higher gears I can’t feel this. But can say that the oomph is not there anymore.

And when the car comes to a halt after a little dive, RPM levels around 1300 in the neutral. AC switch off and on brings back the RPM to 1000 (not 900 though) in this situation.

What I did to fix this

Went to the usual mech and he suggest to do a tune-up. Air filter & petrol filter (the small one in the engine bay) replaced, Plugs were only cleaned. Didn’t see a much difference but there was a little improvement. RPM did not level at 1300 anymore. But all the other symptoms remained.

Secondly mech checked the car and said that the carb repair kit needs to go in. so did that too. No issue for about a month afterwards and then the issue started to come back.

New developments

Yesterday I saw that in the neutral, RPM fluctuate between 700 & 400 in a breathing pattern. This was in the cold start.

Other Info

Something similar to this happened sometime back and was discussed in this thread. Drive belt change made it go away.

Car has a subwoofer and an Amp plugged in.

Battery is just about 1 & half years old and water checked regularly and maintained at correct level.

OEM fog lamps are installed and when they are switched on, I can see a slight RPM drop.

Regular services are done and last one was done at 112,000KMs.

Thanks in advance for your time and knowledge guys..

[Rumesh88]

Get all the vacuum lines checked for leaks. Check and clean the PCV valve and the tube.

[trinity]

Get all the vacuum lines checked for leaks. Check and clean the PCV valve and the tube.

Thanks Rumesh88.. is it OK to continue driving like this?? i mean i'm gonna have to wait about another week or two before i go see the mech..

[NRX]

Thanks Rumesh88.. is it OK to continue driving like this?? i mean i'm gonna have to wait about another week or two before i go see the mech..

Well machan, if it's a vacuum leak your brakes could be at stake

[The Don]

Trinity, I think your problem is a sticking idle control valve. it's probably still operational but is sticking a bit so doesn't regulate the idle as well as it should. Now I'm commenting on experiences with my Mitsubishi but you will find this unit attached on a side of your throttle body under the butter fly valve section (it takes a square plug and is usually beige or black in colour). Your car might have a different unit as well. But anyway take this unit out and clean it with contact cleaner or anything safe to use with plastic because I'm not sure if carb cleaner is a good idea.

Then check connect it back and see if the problem is resolved.

[trinity]

Well machan, if it's a vacuum leak your brakes could be at stake

oh oh..

[trinity]

Trinity, I think your problem is a sticking idle control valve. it's probably still operational but is sticking a bit so doesn't regulate the idle as well as it should. Now I'm commenting on experiences with my Mitsubishi but you will find this unit attached on a side of your throttle body under the butter fly valve section (it takes a square plug and is usually beige or black in colour). Your car might have a different unit as well. But anyway take this unit out and clean it with contact cleaner or anything safe to use with plastic because I'm not sure if carb cleaner is a good idea.

Then check connect it back and see if the problem is resolved.

Thanks Don.. Found similar answer in another MItsubishi forum.. is this the part you are referring to? Machan my technical knowledge is very little in this field.. Sorry for my ignorance..

[The Don]

Thanks Don.. Found similar answer in another MItsubishi forum.. is this the part you are referring to? Machan my technical knowledge is very little in this field.. Sorry for my ignorance..

For some reason I can't see your pic. But the part is the one in post #9 in the forum link you've given on your post.

[Davy]

I think The Don is spot on about the ICV. When I mentioned about trinity's problem to my mechanic, he too said that this is probably the issue.

As for the part in the image, while this is not the same ICV on my engine (4G18), it looks very similar. The best option is to locate it (it should be mounted onto the throttle body) and find a replacement ICV with the same part number. If yours is just sticking, then you might be able to get away with a good clean-up of the ICV.

[trinity]

For some reason I can't see your pic. But the part is the one in post #9 in the forum link you've given on your post.

Yes that is what i posted too.. thanks machan.. will give it a go during the weekend...

[trinity]

I think The Don is spot on about the ICV. When I mentioned about trinity's problem to my mechanic, he too said that this is probably the issue.

As for the part in the image, while this is not the same ICV on my engine (4G18), it looks very similar. The best option is to locate it (it should be mounted onto the throttle body) and find a replacement ICV with the same part number. If yours is just sticking, then you might be able to get away with a good clean-up of the ICV.

Ah.. you are back.. didn't call cuz i didn't wanna bother you ... will buzz you today around noon.. Coming back to the topic, i tried to locate the said part in the manual but failed... Since you know who technical sound i am, do you think that i could DIY this??

[Davy]

On 7/12/2013 at 1:29 PM, trinity said:

Ah.. you are back.. didn't call cuz i didn't wanna bother you ... will buzz you today around noon.. Coming back to the topic, i tried to locate the said part in the manual but failed... Since you know who technical sound i am, do you think that i could DIY this??

Yeah machang, back after a long time.

The ICV should be mounted onto the throttle body using three screws. I'm not entirely sure if the ICV on your engine can be serviced because some of them are sealed and should be replaced if proven to be defective.

Taking it off the throttle body should be an easy job. If you manage to take it out, share a photo. We can then see if it can be taken apart for a cleanup.

Edited January 21, 2021 by Davy
Corrected content

[bogzy]

Saw a thai video on icv cleaning when i googled "lancer 4G13 idle control valve".

That was a cedia icv cleaning vid. Hope you can get some pointers from that if ur diy-ing.

[Avishka B]

Did you solve that problem?  Because now I am also suffering from that problem.  The day before yesterday I put my car in the garage and they said it could be a problem with the IAC valve.  So they changed it to a new one.  But the problem still exists.  Today is the 2nd day in the garage and they said they need more time to go through from wiring to ECU

 

[Chryshantha]

Hey Guys.. My CS1 is also having an issue with the IAC and the mechanic stated that I need to replace it. Got a replacement one from Daraz but was no good and started the issues again. So guys any Idea where I can buy a genuine IAC valve (other than Unit#d Mot#rs) and the current price of it ? 

[aajitha94]

On 8/2/2021 at 3:09 PM, Chryshantha said:

Hey Guys.. My CS1 is also having an issue with the IAC and the mechanic stated that I need to replace it. Got a replacement one from Daraz but was no good and started the issues again. So guys any Idea where I can buy a genuine IAC valve (other than Unit#d Mot#rs) and the current price of it ? 

Chryshantha, have you solved the problem? If not I could help.

Edited February 24, 2022 by aajitha94
Error

[nisalr]

Hi, Guys did anyone got this issue solved? My CS1 is having the same issue. Still couldnt find the exact valve to fix. Most of the valves in the market does not fix the original one and still the issue continues. Any place to find the original one?