Mitusbishi Montero/shogun Sport 2007-2008

[Dinukap4]

hey, I'm planing on getting rid of the Rav 4 2003 soon and was looking at a alternative. Rav4 was pretty bad on fuel economy it had a D4 petrol 2000CC was fun to drive almost like a subi but was a little too small sometimes.. What I have in mind is the Mitsubishi Montero Sport 2007-2008 rage the Permit Diesels 2.5 TD, I've never used any other Jap's other than Toyota so was wondering it's durability ( spare parts) ? reselling value? and off road capability ? well know faults ?

Thanks

Edited August 9, 2014 by Dinukap4

[Komisiripala]

let me just tell you this:

i drove one from trinco to colombo the other day and it sucked donkey d!ck.

no low end power, no high end power. body roll is epic. handling is anaemic. seat gave me a back ache.

god i hated every second of it. trip to trinco was in the older "computer body" paj. that was a turbo engine. sooooo much better in every aspect.

they don't make them like they used to. sadly

[Schiffer]

Agreed with komi, Those montis feel very sluggish and they just swing everywhere. epic bodyroll indeed

and personally find it very ugly too.

[iRage]

Actually...Komi and Schiffer are being too kind.

For some reason I remembed the old late 90s JDM challenger being a lot better (build and ride wise and think it had the same engine of the Pajero). Things simply didnt carry over too well besides the body shape.

[Dinukap4]

OMG you guys are so meaaan! lol , Thank you for the reply fellows really appreciate it. For what I've heard the Engine is legendarily Bullet proof the 4D56's.

The lag can be easily fixed with a little tweaking with the boost screws as said by a mechanic in Panadura because most of them were over boost ?

This is something I read online -

BHP for the 2.5td 4d56 engine like ours is 114 BHP standard, the 98 BHP was on models up-to 2000-2001. With the power module on I believe it takes it up to 138 BHP and what a difference the module makes.

The instructions are translated from Chinese mitsi tech told me, so it does seem a bit strange when reading and a little hard to get grasp of what the bolts actually do, so here is a little run down for you, after you have set the bolts and adjuster up from the instructions here is what each bolt does when turned:

lower bolt - if you screw this inwards it gives you more boost at low revs (i.e faster acceleration low down in the revs.)

Top bolt - this is the one that gives all of us problems 'OVER-BOOST', to get more boost you have to unscrew this bolt out so the pivot arm travels further which in turns closes the vanes inside the turbo housing to direct gases onto the spool at a shallower angle which makes high boost, obviously if you screw it to far out the ecu detects that the boost is getting to high hence the kangarooing and poor boost pressure, so for a quick fix to get rid of the over-boost and kangarooing for anyone who wants to know is to screw the top bolt inwards only a fraction at a time and please bare in mind that you will be in and out of your car at least 20 times adjusting the bolts, as you have to do it a quarter of a turn at a time - THAT IS THE KEY

Actuator adjuster arm - this is more tricky to set up as it has to be adjusted accordingly along with the lower and top bolt. In the instructions it tells you the maximum and minimum you can let the arm move in either direction because if you go to far it states that the vanes can hit the spool wheel but I have never managed to do that yet, at idle the bottom of the pivot arm should be nearly touching the lower stop bolt, and at full boost the top of the pivot arm touches the top stopper bolt.

When you come to set the turbo up it is best to take the heat shield off which is next to the turbo, 2 bolts to the rear bulkhead and 1 just to the side of the air filter housing, this makes it easier to get spanners and that in to the bolts and so on.

Edited August 10, 2014 by Dinukap4

[iRage]

Any chance u can get this done on a unit before u buy one?

As for the rolling on leakywater bed like body rolling ride I guess u can outfit it with an aftermarket suspension setup.

Edited August 10, 2014 by iRage

[Komisiripala]

Ultra racing offers the handling package. But I'm sure it's over 100,000! You'd need the strut tower bars, lower anti roll bar and/or front h brace. Serysly why not an older Monty?

[Dinukap4]

Lovelys I'm talking about this, in case any of you all think its the newer version -

Not this bullcrap-

[Schiffer]

ahhh.. no idea about that, i was talking about the bullcrap-

[Dinukap4]

ahhh.. no idea about that, i was talking about the bullcrap-

Lol I thought you were.

[Komisiripala]

I'm not. That's the one I drove. The first one.

Uurgh

[Ruslan]

Even though it's a 4D56, i think it came with Common-rail pump (Newer engines of the same range).. so better watch out for diesel pump issues with local fuels.. saw couple of V6 Petrols but then again Rav4 would do better...

[iRage]

I was referring to the right 9ne as well, the 9ne which has the nody 9f the old JDM Mitsu Challenger.

[john cooper]

Hello Team

Let me add my experience about "M", 4D56 use to be bulletproof but no more with new models, Drove a one in 2008 and its a manual diesel Mitsi Montero Sport and for sure agree with comi BUT Challenger i used here for couple of weeks got heaps of grunt good on handling and its a JAP import but its gas guzzler (Petrol model)

Please correct me if i am wrong - I guess the build quality is different in that model sent to SL due to the Permit restrictions in SL and they try match that and that might be another reason for poor build quality

Good luck for the hunt and try something Toyota again

regards

JC

[Dinukap4]

Thank you all ! Decided to not buying it, the second hand market for this even though its a Jap is pretty low as well.