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Cvt Re - Calibration


LancerL

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Hi Honda experts

Found this on Internet while finding a solution to my CVT vibration.

Has anybody done this before?

There are couple of way of doing the same, if someone have done, please mention the steps as well.

Looks like this is the remedy for the jerk/vibration on D or R while brake pressed.

Thanks

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How you ensured the vibration is from CVT?

Well, in idle with or without A/C I don't get any vibration at any RPM (Doesn't matter the engine is hot or cold).

Soon after I engage to D or R, it give a jerk and start vibrating the whole car.

Done a tune up recently with changing all 8 spark plugs, Injector/throttle body cleaning and etc...

Checked engine mounts and all were good except gearbox side, which I have changed with a brand new.

So the final conclusion was CVT where this module is known to that.

Any other possibility that you see? apart CVT.

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Well, I have same on my GD8... Unfortunately this is a common issue in Hondas.. Honda CVT's are popular for failures including the hybrids which came with CVT gearboxes.. Not quite sure who can do a permanent fix for this issue hmmm...

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Well, I have same on my GD8... Unfortunately this is a common issue in Hondas.. Honda CVT's are popular for failures including the hybrids which came with CVT gearboxes.. Not quite sure who can do a permanent fix for this issue hmmm...

Heard about a lot of these 7 Speed Multimatic failures in Honda City and Fit Aria but I've never heard of a CVT failure in 1st or 2nd Gen Fits / shuttles or in vezals.

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Guys, as per my findings on internet and below link, this vibration also can come if the Battery terminal removed and reconnected (ECU gets reset).

What happen is that the memory related to CVT starter clutch engagement is being erased and need to reprogram to engage at the correct position. This mis engagement also could lead to the experience what PerfMad and myself are suffering.

Rather repair/replace the gear box I'm looking for other possible alternatives to get this matter sorted.

If anyone done this before by them self of by agents, please comment with their findings and experience before and after the calibration.

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Heard about a lot of these 7 Speed Multimatic failures in Honda City and Fit Aria but I've never heard of a CVT failure in 1st or 2nd Gen Fits / shuttles or in vezals.

That because most sell em before they reach the end of the life span.. I know a friend who is having a Insight with 60k on the clock and having the same gear box issues

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Guys, as per my findings on internet and below link, this vibration also can come if the Battery terminal removed and reconnected (ECU gets reset).

What happen is that the memory related to CVT starter clutch engagement is being erased and need to reprogram to engage at the correct position. This mis engagement also could lead to the experience what PerfMad and myself are suffering.

Rather repair/replace the gear box I'm looking for other possible alternatives to get this matter sorted.

If anyone done this before by them self of by agents, please comment with their findings and experience before and after the calibration.

Try showing it to the agents machan .. I once contact a person who works in stafford, and explained him the symptoms .. What he told was to do a oil change and if the issue remains as it is.. you simply can't repair the gearbox, but you need to go for a recon one which will cost somewhere around 60-70k and you should be good for another 60 thousand km's

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Guys, as per my findings on internet and below link, this vibration also can come if the Battery terminal removed and reconnected (ECU gets reset).

What happen is that the memory related to CVT starter clutch engagement is being erased and need to reprogram to engage at the correct position. This mis engagement also could lead to the experience what PerfMad and myself are suffering.

Did you removed your battery terminal or replaced battery without giving outside power?

If so, when? At which millage?

How about the millage now?

If the case is above,

1. If ECU could learn, it may learn and adjust with the time

or

2. If ECU couldn't learn, then it should be made with facilities to manually program with relevant parameters. However may need relevant instruments.

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Did you removed your battery terminal or replaced battery without giving outside power?

If so, when? At which millage?

How about the millage now?

If the case is above,

1. If ECU could learn, it may learn and adjust with the time

or

2. If ECU couldn't learn, then it should be made with facilities to manually program with relevant parameters. However may need relevant instruments.

Yes the battery been replaced to install gearbox mount without giving outside power.

About 200kms back

Now the total is 117000kms.

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According to the "calibration procedure with driving the vehicle", ECU may learn it automatically when the car decelarating from 60km/h for 5 seconds.

However it may depend on your driving pattern.

Same type procedure (not same but same system) like "calibration procedure during halts" is using for Toyota CVT boxes to confirm whether the required temperature has reached to adjust CVT fluid level. Therefore this may be true. Please try it.

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According to the "calibration procedure with driving the vehicle", ECU may learn it automatically when the car decelarating from 60km/h for 5 seconds.

However it may depend on your driving pattern.

Same type procedure (not same but same system) like "calibration procedure during halts" is using for Toyota CVT boxes to confirm whether the required temperature has reached to adjust CVT fluid level. Therefore this may be true. Please try it.

Yah.. I'm planing to tryout on weekend.

Will update the status..

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Yes I tried this acceleration method.

1. Parked a well carpeted road about 10 at night coz of less vehicles on road.

2. Switch off all electrical including door light, removed one battery terminal and kept for like 20mins.

3. Reconnected, started the Car and let the radiator fan kicks up.

4. Shut the engine and restarted.

5. Switch on headlight, press the break paddle and shift to D (Before shift make sure the road is clear)

6. Let the car move on and gradually accelerate until it reach 60Kmph.

7. Take leg off from accelerator and let the car itself to slow down by the engine brake. (Repeat step 6 and 7 for 2-3 times)

8. Drive home and let the it cool down.

Had a trial run on next day, D and R vibration in cold start was still remaining, but after first 2-3Kms it disappeared and the acceleration feels better than earlier.

I tested the same again couple of other cold starts and it was the same result.

What I cannot understand is that why this has not applied to cold start but working after initial kilometers.

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