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asanka_rg

Erratic shifting in drive mode

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hi all,

today I drove car about 8km from home to a wedding. Once I started to go home after the function I feel the gears are not engaging as expected. (it's a Suzuki swift 2003. 80k milage.) engine rpm goes high but the speed is very low. If I press hard it will engage. So I am worried what happened suddenly. I came in the morning no issue. Of course the car stayed in very hot sunlight. (??!!?) for about 4 hours. I have noticed the engine light on for few times and OD light blinking few times while I'm coming home. I stopped by a mechanic and asked him to see. He said the box is slipping. Can't fix and better replacing the gearbox.. What should I do ? I can say fluid level is ok and fluid looks good reddish. I didn't change the oil as the previous owner said I can go about 20k before next change. Give me some good news because I'm bit confused at the moment ūüėĆ thanks .

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1 hour ago, asanka_rg said:

ok well. Let me know the procedure. I can check the resistance value.

You need a method to connect terminals of the TPS to a meter (better if it is an analog meter) unless you remove the TPS from the throttle body. My advise is not to remove it but to just unplug the 3-pin connector and to take measurements while TPS is still mechanically engaged with the throttle flap. You need something improvised to attach meter probes to the TPS (I use individual female connector pins removed from old  PC power supplies with a insulation tape wrapped around the tip) or someone to hold the meter probes steadily(easily said than done). TPS is nothing but a potentiometer either with (4-pin) or without (3-pin) a switch contact. Yours being a 3-pin one all you have to do is to attach a meter switched to 20k ohm range to the two terminals showing the smallest reading when the throttle is fully closed and very slowly open the throttle while keeping an eye on the meter. The reading should move smoothly up without any dead spots or jumps, from a value close to zero to about 3-5k as you fully open the throttle. If you find any jumps or dead spots replace the TPS. Usually TPS failures are common in its movement range close to closed throttle position.

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You really have a lot of problems with that car don't you? :rolleyes:

Without trusting what the previous owner had to say, I think you should first do a proper ATF change see if the situation improves. Do a bit of hard driving after the ATF change to see if the issue comes up again. This is probably the first step to diagnose the problem IMO.

You also might want to read through this very recent thread just to get an idea about the possible causes and what you should do to diagnose the issue:

 

 

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 It is possible your lovely little car has been used and abused for all it's life.

Your symptoms are being all too common on this forum,..

 

Edited by Twin Turbo

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actually I bought the car from first owner. Previous owner is an engineer. But I don't know how he use the car and all. Anyway I have noticed a welding mark on the AT oil pan at the bottom.

today morning I went to the garage I haven't noticed any slipping. I wanted to scan the car but couldn't get it done as their scanner not supported.

before changing the oil i drove bit and noticed that slipping is there. So i changed the oil through the drain plug. Not by the machine. Then i drove again and i noticed the same slipping action. I have attached a photo of oil pan for the reference.

WP_20170303_002.jpg

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Hope did not have one too many at the wedding to feel like slipping :D

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It matters not if the previous owner was a rocket scientist. The ATF on the oil pan looks dark, better get the entire system flushed with an exchanger.  Having said that, no ammount of  atf changing will repair a worn tranmission.

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I went back to Dhammika's place and scan for the error code. It was the TPS malfunction. I should mention that slipping action is only cause when I press hard on accelerator. Even I had that stalling thing (kadi kadi adillla) before. That could be the same tps sensor malfunctioning. He Said if this thing keep coming replace the tps. Could you guys give ur comment on this. I actually gave u wrong word "slipping" before scanning. Could that really bcz of the bad TPS??

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1 hour ago, asanka_rg said:

I went back to Dhammika's place and scan for the error code. It was the TPS malfunction. I should mention that slipping action is only cause when I press hard on accelerator. Even I had that stalling thing (kadi kadi adillla) before. That could be the same tps sensor malfunctioning. He Said if this thing keep coming replace the tps. Could you guys give ur comment on this. I actually gave u wrong word "slipping" before scanning. Could that really bcz of the bad TPS??

Well that is something I wouldn't expect from a person of reputation in the field. In electrical terms TPS is the simplest sensor of them all. It can be tested and confirmed offline and replaced if faulty.

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So this is not related to the transmission at all and not "gear slipping" as mentioned in the thread title. Like Rumesh88 said, the TPS can be tested easily and replaced only if faulty. 

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20 hours ago, Rumesh88 said:

Well that is something I wouldn't expect from a person of reputation in the field. In electrical terms TPS is the simplest sensor of them all. It can be tested and confirmed offline and replaced if faulty.

mentioned symptoms above are due to a bad TPS? I had that shift up issue when accelerating. Normal acceleration (light) is not messy. Could you please explain? Replacing tps will solve this?

Edited by asanka_rg
missing word

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1 hour ago, asanka_rg said:

mentioned symptoms above are due to a bad TPS? I had that shift up issue when accelerating. Normal acceleration (light) is not messy. Could you please explain? Replacing tps will solve this?

The symptoms as I understand ie stalling and difficulty in hard acceleration can be due to a bad TPS.  When the throttle is suddenly opened as in hard acceleration the fuel injection system should adjust the amount of fuel injected by each injector. Now TPS provides  an instantaneous feedback on the throttle change to the ECU while the adjustments according to MAP/MAF and O2 sensors are done subsequently. Hence TPS can be faulty but you do not need to guess it based on inputs from a forum. You can get the TPS tested and the fault confirmed with a simple resistance measurement and get it replaced with a clear conscience. 

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1 hour ago, Rumesh88 said:

The symptoms as I understand ie stalling and difficulty in hard acceleration can be due to a bad TPS.  When the throttle is suddenly opened as in hard acceleration the fuel injection system should adjust the amount of fuel injected by each injector. Now TPS provides  an instantaneous feedback on the throttle change to the ECU while the adjustments according to MAP/MAF and O2 sensors are done subsequently. Hence TPS can be faulty but you do not need to guess it based on inputs from a forum. You can get the TPS tested and the fault confirmed with a simple resistance measurement and get it replaced with a clear conscience. 

ok well. Let me know the procedure. I can check the resistance value.

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15 hours ago, Rumesh88 said:

You need a method to connect terminals of the TPS to a meter (better if it is an analog meter) unless you remove the TPS from the throttle body. My advise is not to remove it but to just unplug the 3-pin connector and to take measurements while TPS is still mechanically engaged with the throttle flap. You need something improvised to attach meter probes to the TPS (I use individual female connector pins removed from old  PC power supplies with a insulation tape wrapped around the tip) or someone to hold the meter probes steadily(easily said than done). TPS is nothing but a potentiometer either with (4-pin) or without (3-pin) a switch contact. Yours being a 3-pin one all you have to do is to attach a meter switched to 20k ohm range to the two terminals showing the smallest reading when the throttle is fully closed and very slowly open the throttle while keeping an eye on the meter. The reading should move smoothly up without any dead spots or jumps, from a value close to zero to about 3-5k as you fully open the throttle. If you find any jumps or dead spots replace the TPS. Usually TPS failures are common in its movement range close to closed throttle position.

well I did some googling too.  I will check asap. thanks. :) 

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I checked and the values are not proportional. By the way guys help me find a good place where I can Buy the TPS around Colombo. ??

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Check with the agent. I guess the part number is 13420-52G00. Check this number against the marking on the TPS or with the agent just to make sure. If the local price is too high you can try online sellers like partsfan, megazip, or amayama.  

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13420-65D00 is the part no as per the VIN.  megazip says 190.USD !!!

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1 hour ago, asanka_rg said:

13420-65D00 is the part no as per the VIN.  megazip says 190.USD !!!

WTF USD 190 for a TPS? According to indications at amayama the part has been discontinued. That may explain the high price. A couple of years back I got down a TPS for a Toyota at a price of USD 30 from amayama. Is the part manufactured by ND (Nippon Denso)? Read the ND part number and give it a online search.

Edited by Rumesh88

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Sorry I didn't reply. Actually I didn't change the TPS yet. I used to press few times all the way down accelerator pedal before starting the engine thinking of the Potentiometer. I really didn't experience that error for a while now. So I am thinking to use it and see. Meanwhile I can order TPS from Ebay or Amazon. thanks.

Edited by asanka_rg

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